KZ1000 P5

  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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14 Aug 2015 17:07 #685798 by SWest
Replied by SWest on topic KZ1000 P5
Ah, speak for yourself. Looks like you'll need to go through the valve train. I'd start there.
Steve
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15 Aug 2015 14:38 #685874 by KZP15
Replied by KZP15 on topic KZ1000 P5

Knightmares wrote: Do I get a gold star for donating? Well at least I get advice and help from a bunch of degenerates :evil:


You gunna do it or is some else?

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17 Aug 2015 01:09 - 17 Aug 2015 01:09 #686041 by Knightmares
Replied by Knightmares on topic KZ1000 P5
I am going for reliable on a dime so mostly stock oem stuff unless someone points out parts that are a huge improvement and reasonably close to oem parts, I like many am an over worked under paid grunt, I have seen front fork swaps and swing arm swaps, but honestly i do not have the equipment at my disposal nor the money to pay someone else to do it. So, I wad eyeball deep into this shit. I have stripped the electrical out, removed the forks(oil also) and rear swing arm, I have replaced the front bearings working on the rear bearings. The two in the hub were red in color and sealed the one in the sprocket hub, cush drive?( I am still learning the language I speak profanity fluently though so I think I will catch on quick) It is open ball bearings packed in grease. I bought a set of rear sealed ball bearings. I think I am safe to pull the circlip and knock out the packed ball bearing as well. I started to remove the rotors but a bolt stripped out then I tried to use a back out tool and snapped the carbide tip off, kind of F-ed there. I am going with OD green on the tins with gold foil frame and accents. I have a 4 year old and I wanted her to dab on the gold foil. The KZP mags have aluminum and black. The plan was to paint the black OD green and gold foil the aluminum. I need to buy a torch to try heat up the bolt on the rotor, I scored it with a rotating tool, but it is still to thin to get a screw driver into. Not really sure what the best plan of attack is from here. I bought bearings for the swing arm, not sure how to go about getting those out yet. The ones I bought got caught in the rain rusted up, working outside with saw horses and some plywood. So the list of parts I need gets longer. Pics to come Thank to one and all for the advice and encouragement. I have been lurking on a couple other builds and I know Swest advised another unfortunate KZP owner to go ahead and buy valve springs at the same time as the valves. Not sure what all I have to buy, I do not want to have to replace shit that will not wear out for a bit, but I do not want to have a shim or cam chain explode and end up having to scrap the bike. I have to much sweat, tears, and bloodied knuckles and when I call it names, yell at it, and drag it though the dirt I think I am making it combat ready :angry:
Last edit: 17 Aug 2015 01:09 by Knightmares. Reason: spelling

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  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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17 Aug 2015 08:08 - 17 Aug 2015 08:13 #686066 by SWest
Replied by SWest on topic KZ1000 P5
So you snapped off a EZ out. Most of have done it and if they say they haven't, they're ether lying or don't really work on their bikes. :whistle: Very few 30+ year old bikes are as pristine as a FEW here. Bossie sat waiting under a Misquite tree for 15 years. (no garage) :pinch:





The idea is to do one thing at a time. In my case, I didn't have the money to throw at it, so I started by cleaning, painting and polishing things that hadn't been touched in 20 or so years. While doing this I was making a list of things that needed replacing. It got longer and longer. Some things I replaced 15 years ago were still good but not many. :unsure:
You will need a 3/8" hand impact driver. It will be useful on those JIS/Phillips pan screws. Also it will be useful in removing stubborn bolts. Put a socket on it, twist the spring, hit it with a hammer and the bolt should come loose. :woohoo:
Broken EZ out; Now you're in it. The only thing you can do is take a punch and tap on it until it becomes loose enough to pull it out with a magnet. I can't tell you how many times I've done it in the past 40 years. Seems they're made to break. :angry: If you mung up a thread hole, so be it, that's what Heli coils are for. B)
The idea is to have a plan, do one thing at a time and move on. Chassis bearings should all be replaced on a 30 year old bike. Good time for paint too. :)
Like I've told all my helpers over the years, focus on what you are doing, go to the next step, at the end of the day, you'll see how far you've gone. :ohmy:
Steve
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17 Aug 2015 08:35 #686070 by KZP15
Replied by KZP15 on topic KZ1000 P5
Night a good kiwi bro sent me a manual for your year. Its a pdf file. Get me your email via PM (not here public) and I will send it off. Its huge with wat you are doing. Do one thing at a time and slow your roll. You will get overwhelmed and well you know wat happens then...15lbs of C4 and some detcord with a M60 igniter. I did my electrical first. Replaced everything. A dude here Mike Folks and Martin CSR (and others too many to list) helped along the way. The manual actually answers most every question. These dudes interpreted anything that needed enlightenment. Your P5 has a supplement manual but it relates to the police stuff. Really don't need it right meow.
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17 Aug 2015 18:50 #686145 by Knightmares
Replied by Knightmares on topic KZ1000 P5
Thank you, sound advise. I have been tackling a bit at a time my big concern is having things sit and rust being outside. I will write the parts I have bought and my to do list. If ya'll think the order needs amended or that it is something that can be put off let me know. I have pretty much given up on this riding season and planning for the next. I Mainly want to tackle the motor and get it reassembled and paint the frame, stuff that mother nature will wreck havoc with.

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