Z440 ltd project

Hello All,
Thought I'd share my KZ440 project. She's a bit rough at the moment, but I'll get there. I've started a blog, more to help me remember what I've done, but I don't know if people here would find it interesting. I'll try to copy the contents over.
Dan

Having finally got some garage space, I thought I needed a new bike. The Honda's all very good, but there's nothing wrong with it - how dull!

Luckily, Gumtree came to my rescue - a Kawasaki 440 only 15 miles away with a year's ticket.
I went to see it - First impressions were that it's a little rough round the edges. No wing mirrors and no indicators. A little reluctant to start. Badly sprayed side panels. Still - I bought it!

On the ride home I discovered that I could manage 60mph flat out in top, the rear brake pulses and half the lights are rubbish. Also, those buck-horn handlebars are crippling! Also there's an oil leak. But then again, I like British bikes, so maybe it's just added character.

I'm actually really pleased with it. Lots to do, but the basis of a good bike to be made I think.

Not sure how to get the images to copy over???


This is mainly a list of what's been done so I can remember what I've taken off and why. Also what tests I've tried.
Bike is running on 1 cylinder. Initially I thought it was 2 but I was wrong. Took the temperature of each header, but the heat was far too quick to travel from the 2-1 join near the footpeg and back up, making the left hand header hot. Thought I might have a few seconds but obviously not.

Checked the compression and I have about 140psi per cylinder so it's not that.

Took the plug caps off one at a time. Taking off the right plug cap results in the engine spluttering and dying, the left one - no effect! So it's the left cylinder. The KZ440 is a wasted spark engine, so if the problem was electrical, swapping over the plugs and HT leads should make the problem jump to the right cylinder. Problem still on the left cylinder so it's not that either.
I replaced the plug caps and plugs, as well as an oil and filter change just for the sake of good practice.

Carbs, then. Just in case it was wildly off-balance (I stupidly adjusted what I thought was tickover and was actually the balance screw when I first got the bike). I got some vacuum guages and gave it a go. Had the tank on a shelf with a length of hose to the carbs. No joy.
I cracked open the float bowl drains. The right hand one was full of petrol, the left bone-dry! Think I've got a sticky float.

Have ordered 2 carb rebuild kits and will have a go as soon as the second one gets here. This blog is mainly my way to talk myself through what I've been doing so I don't forget. It's really helped with doing the Lotus, though I don't expect this bike to take 3 years and counting!

Pictures!



From the wobbly and slow first ride back



In it's new home. I think 50% of the bike's weight is made up of that seat. Comfy though.



Ridiculous buckhorn handlebars.




Look at them! Like riding a wheelbarrow.



Possibly contributed to the wobbly ride home.



Drain plug and oil filter housing.



Inspection pits are great!



Pulley cover off, trying to find the source of an oil leak.


There it is - where the gear selector shaft goes into the engine. Hoping I can get away with replacing the seal without taking the engine apart.



Seat off - exposing airbox, filter and back of tank. Tank securing bolt was missing at the back - replaced with a stainless one I had.



Note to self: Long L-shape hinge pin goes towards the back of the bike.



Is this what they mean by "naked bike"?



That bend in the frame rail means no classic café racer/flat-tracker for me without some major surgery.



The Germans have a word for this - it translates as cable-salad.


Side view of (working) carb.



Whatever this bit is. Possibly starter relay?



Coils mounted up under tank



Drive belt and rear tyre both seen better days.



Shiny new tank-holding bolt.



Seat unit. Also, you see the bendy torch on the right? They use those as part of the seat assembly in Red Dwarf series 10. Fact! Prop department certainly knows how to find a bargain.



One of the two carb rebuild kits. Also shows the gearchange seal, but I'm thinking it might be the wrong one.



Well, if you're going to rig up a remote fuel tank, why not just use the actual tank? Saves siphoning.



Air filter housing off. Need to remove the whole box before getting to the carbs.



Replaced the old plugs and caps. Bike had the wrong ones initially.



Seat and tank holdy bits. Magnetic parts trays are awesome.



Fuel feed to the carbs when the tank's not on.



Vacuum feed to the synchro guages. Normally one has a cap on and the other operates the fuel tap.



Must remember - head vents into airbox