kz550 build

Hey Everyone!
really excited to join this group,

I just picked up a 1980 kz550 and have big plans for a complete tear down and custom build.
I dont plan on doing any major engine modifications, and will be focusing on getting the engine in great running condition, then turning my energy towards the overall aesthetic of the bike.

Follow my tumblr blog here will I will post more about the build and the progress.

powrof5.tumblr.com/

I hope this thread will be more for questions about the build from you and myself.

Thanks for all the help in advance, I have never done this before but i figure go big or go home.

Here she is as she stands now





Here is my inspiration for this build. Ugly Bikes xs750 build. This bike has the balance of both modern and classic style which is very appealing to me

Going Cafe style then , cool. That bike is a good platform for it. You'll need to get or build yourself that classic rear cafe box and relocate all your electronics & battery to it. Most likely pod filters, cut pipes. You know, the usual stuff. Maybe do a mono shock.... Good luck bro, should be sweet. Go over to bobberforum.com and start a build thread in cafe forum. There's a lot of old builders there with lots of knowledge, tips and tricks. And a lot of build pics to get ideas from.

looks like a great project.

There is rarely any reason to tear into a 550 motor. All they ever usually need is a valve adjustment. And on that note, please read the valve train warning in my signature. You'll also find the factory service manual and other manuals. You shoud grab all of them. You'll also want to check out the TK22 page.

thanks for the info. I will update again soon. I will have many questions shortly

Your Kawasaki is already better than that Yamaha, so don't let it inspire you too much. You can actually ride your bike. The owner of the Yamaha (like so many posers) can only push his bike around and take pictures of it, because it ain't goin' nowhere without a drive chain. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Ed

I saw a guy take his upper crown and cut/grind off the riser bar tabs. is that safe?

Some bikes don't need a drive chain to go places. It is an xs750, shaft-drive, three cylinder. Not a bad bike... kinda heavy, stock. I preferred the 550 over my buddy's shaft-drive xs750 triple. The KZ was smoother and felt lighter (likely is actually lighter).

But I agree with Ed, you already have a better bike. It's a different era for the styling, though. The XS (1978 I think) had much more rounded body parts, where the KZ550 was definitely more angular.

On the 550, you can cut the bar risers off, but there will be odd shaped holes in the casting where the base of the risers had ribs. After cutting off the risers, the ribs will still be there for strength, but the holes need to be welded up. Any good welding shop can fill them easily. I had a buddy mig weld mine up. The top triple clamp does not support any weight, it just stabilizes the tops of the forks.

Notice the lower clamp is made of steel and uses twice the clamping bolts.

You can see where there is a little pitting from the mig welding. (My buddy was doing it for free, and he is super busy.) You can always smooth any pits with body filler, later.








Cut the risers just above the level of the stack washers. Then after welding, you can belt-sand or file down to the level of the stack washers.


Cut the rises in a plane parallel to the plane of the clamps.

Drive shaft. OOOOPS! :blush: :laugh: Ed

hey everyone check out the updates on the build progress

powrof5


also what is the process behind making room for a wider tire. The swing arm has a lot of room left but the brake stabilizer arm is withing millimeters of my 120 tire. can i make a brake stabilizer bar that has a bed in it to accommodate for a wider tire.




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Nice progress!
In my experience, I've regretted going to a wider tire. The 120/90 corners much more smoothly than the 130/80. I've gone back and forth on rear size, and I'm pretty convinced the 120 is better for handling. The 130 may be better for acceleration, and may look cooler. If the torque link is that close to the tire, make sure the wheel is straight with the frame, and centered, and same for the swingarm. You may have to fab a torque link with more clearance.

With the fneder cut down, the motor will take on a lot more grit and grime, so be ready t hit the motor with an airhose before changing plugs etc.

I'm glad you welded a cross pipe at the back of the frame. Without it, the frame tubes would roll more on cornering etc.

awesome! thank you for your advice. I think this bike will be more of a casual driver then an everyday rider. I am going for show quality. We will see how that plays out. lol