Dwarf Car Project

Zed1015,

Interesting read! Nice work also!!!
My thinking was to use the oil pressure test port from the right side of the engine. I am just going to run stock engine for now and perhaps run an oil pressure gauge from that port. Have a friend that has offered to help with a top oiler. Think I will just go with the oil cooler and ducts and cooling fans for now. I will read all the posts in your thread more carefully in the near future. Thanks for the link!

Steve

zed1015 wrote:

justfreaky wrote: OK, first question:
I was looking at some parts on the OldKawMan's site. Still can't wrap my head around the low oil pressure situation on the KZ engine. He has oil pumps for the 1981-83 KZ1000J and KZ1100A models and claims "nice upgrade for older models". Is this an upgrade I should pursue for my engine?

I am adding an oil cooler and the "gate", or trap door, to the oil pan. Trying to keep as much oil around the pump and help cooling as I can. I have toyed with a top end oiling upgrade as well. They use them on the legends car engines (Yamaha 1100, 1200 and 1250 FJ/XJ). Anyone have thought on this?

Steve

ALL the KZ900 thru to GPZ1100A oil pumps flow exactly the same.
There is no std swap upgrade from another model.
The only advantage of using a newer one is maybe less internal wear.
The only true upgrade is to buy a 40% extra flow billet pump and deep sump from TURBOMAXX-http://www.turbomaxx.de/oelpumpenkit.html - Price around 1250 euro.(I have one for my 1428 motor - Nice bit of kit).
You may also want to re-think the oil pan gate as it only stops oil surging away from the pump when the engine is mounted with the gearbox orientated to the rear.
Having the engine mounted sideways changes the direction of the surge to the side and renders the normal type oil pan gate largly useless.
You will need to fit a baffle plate to the sump floor at 90 degrees to the crank, preferably in conjunction with either a Turbomax/egli etc type deep sump or modded sump floor below the pump and a downwards extended oil pump pick-up.

Here's a link to my (How to) top end oiler/Dry block thread i posted a while ago.
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/324427-how-to...block-your-kz9001000
Hope it helps.

Don't forget being slammed through corners,lots of g's at play there.
Hard right turn should be basically same affect as shutting throttle off hard in straight line.
Hard left would be basically same as punching throttle in straight line to my way of thinking.

After further consideration i don't think the oil pump will be that much of an issue as turning the engine 90deg to the left now puts the pump to the rear of the pan and will be fed by the surge.
If you have access to alloy welding the std sump can be easily (and cheaply) modified to create an oil reservoir directly below the pump and the std pump itself can be extended downwards so the pickup is constantly immersed in oil even under extreme turns..

zed1015 wrote: After further consideration i don't think the oil pump will be that much of an issue as turning the engine 90deg to the left now puts the pump to the rear of the pan and will be fed by the surge.
If you have access to alloy welding the std sump can be easily (and cheaply) modified to create an oil reservoir directly below the pump and the std pump itself can be extended downwards so the pickup is constantly immersed in oil even under extreme turns..

That may be an option. I'll look into buying another pan and check with some of the local welding shops.

Thanks,

Steve

Any thoghts as to clutch issues?

Thanks,

Steve

What do you mean?
Worried about it slipping ?
You could fit an extra plate kit from APE and some stronger springs or even a lock-up mechanism.
I presume the clutch will be foot activated so some very heavy springs won't be as much of an issue as if it were hand operated.

You could always modify the pressure plate like in this pic below with alloy buckets to take some valve springs for some serious pressure.

I'm not really sure what to expect from the stock clutch. I have already thought about heavy duty springs. Perhaps the Barnett kevlar plates. I can go either way on the clutch... Hand operated or foot operated.

Thanks,

Steve

Could also consider --

www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...od+Kit&item=APKCB900

Good Fortune!

Thanks Patton! I have considered that upgrade as well.
I am slowley reading many of the posts here on the forum. Lots of info to sort through. :ohmy:

Steve

Woohoo!!! Got my tow vehicle yesterday. Hope to load up the car and get it out to the house today. Have to give the weld shop a call and see when I can get it in.

Steve

Got the car loaded up and back out to the house. Now to arrange a date to get it to my welders shop. Catch can came in the mail. I hope the weather is good next week so I can get busy!!!!

Steve

Finally!!!! The car is headed off to the welder tomorrow morning. They needed to make enough space in their shop to keep the car for a bit. As they are my latest sponsor for the project, I had to be a bit patient. First order of business will be repairs to the rear clip, Rollcage bracing and doors. No current progress on the engine. Will get back on that very soon.

Steve