750 Spectre rebirth.

Finally getting back to the bike.Money's been mighty scarce since my Daughters wedding last fall,but it's what we do for our kids and worth every penny.I hope I have what I need to fix a fuel inlet leak (O-rings)first off.Next I plan to repaint the exhaust and wanted to know if the mufflers could be repacked? Most videos show rivets to be drilled out but these don't have rivets,looks like small hex head bolts on the end cap.
I read that the battery cables should be upgraded,what do you folks recommend?I also want to update the fork oil,and new brake pads.Should the shaft drive get a lube change? Also any tips for cleaning the mag wheels? They are pretty oxidized.
I have to have shoulder surgery in a couple weeks so I will have some time on my hands before I can ride,seems like light duty bike repair will make for good P.T.

You should pull the shaft off, and grease the splines where it goes onto the bevel gear, that's at the motor. I run synthetic gear lube in the final drive, also grease the splines at the wheel hub. A common oil leak is at the O-ring where the Pinion gear goes into the final drive. The 4 bolts around the pinion will let it come out, and a new O-ring can be fitted to the outer diameter of the pinion bearing holder.
Fork oil change is simple to do, the volume and weight is a key factor. The volume in cc will be in your service manual along with the suggested weight for the oil. Also you can measure how far the oil level comes up in the tube, usually with the spring removed, this is the better way to set the oil volume.

Be sure to check the Kawasaki manual on measuring the fork oil level from top of tube. The instructions may vary from model to model. On my KZ650 the distance is measured with the springs in place. Ed

Well,it's been a couple of weeks but things are lookin up.I got my permit and reg. today so I am chommping at the bit.Still have a small leak at the Fuel inlet pipe,the Oring's are a sloppy fit so I have to revisit this.A new sparkplug made a bit difference but still had some stumbling when first opening the throttle.Now that I'm legal I took her for a short ride never got much above 40mph.The bike felt real sloppy and front end heavy in a turn.Back to the shop for new grips,mirrors and some control adjustments to suit me,so I did some checking-No air in the forks or shocks,20 lbs in the rear tire and 18 lbs in the front.The header flanges were a bit loose also.Straightend all that out and it's like a different bike.I wouldn't have suspected the exhaust flanges would make such a difference,runs great-Still a bit boggy of the line but I am used to dirt bike with low end grunt so I have to learn to keep the revs up.The front still feels heavy and stiff in turns so I plan to relace the steering bearing when I do the fokl seals.Shifting is a bit clunky but not having gone more than ten miles in the past 4+ yrs it may need to get a workout.I hope to get some riding time tomorrow and the re-evaluate.I really dig this bike and look forward to continuing with the restoration.Its been over 30 yrs. since I've had a bike and I forgot how much I love working on them.I will try to post some pics.I want to repaint the black exhaust any suggestion on which paint to use?I have read that Accel plugs are a good option any thoughts? A friend has a mechanic that said when I was ready He would balance the carbs for me,I will be seeing him real soon. I would love to hookup with any Members that are near Cape Cod.

Some pics

Got out for a short ride after fixing the fuel pipe- will post pics later.I also changed oil and filter(Rottella T).After a 20 min. Ride the #4 cylnder wasn't firing.Water on the exhaust test-also have a small oil leak on the front of the cylinders.If plug wires are not touching each other can they missfire? Would retourquing the heads be OK?

Finally brought the bike home,I've been keeping it at work till road ready.Been doing some riding this weekend,I don't think it's gone more than 10 miles in the last 4 yrs.I installed Accel u-groove plugs and they made a real difference-quicker to start and runs stronger-gapped to .040.I still have a fuei inlet leak,I saw that Z1 has inlet pipes for kz900,I am going to call them to see what they have for the Spectre.I haven't had it much over 55mph but it really rips at 3/4 throttle through 4 gears.Ther is a bit of stumble and occasional back fire crusing at 3,500 to 4,500 rpm.The exhaust headers on cylinder 3+4 are cooler than 1+2 and it runs best with a bit of choke on so I need to revisit the carbs but I am loving the way this bike rides and it looks pretty damn sweet.

Kevin, do you have a factory service manual for your Spectre? If yes, does it cover the Keihin CV34mm carbs?

I've been having trouble finding the FSM float bowl height and fuel level height for my 82 Spectre 750. I don't have a manual for it. If you do, I'd sure appreciate a quick spec lookup.

Thx.

rustbuckett wrote: Kevin, do you have a factory service manual for your Spectre? If yes, does it cover the Keihin CV34mm carbs?

I've been having trouble finding the FSM float bowl height and fuel level height for my 82 Spectre 750. I don't have a manual for it. If you do, I'd sure appreciate a quick spec lookup.

Thx.

KZr's FILEBASE




includes the following:



Here's a direct link:

www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/47...-shop-manual-via-omr


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Good Fortune!

Hey Rust,looks like PATTON supplied the info.I got into my carbs today and repaired the fuel leak (again).I found the repair I did last time actually partly blocked the fuel to the 3+4 carbs.its all good now.While I had them on the bench I checked my float height-upside down from the rim of the carb I measured 16mm.I have to do the clear tube test again but I had about 4mm.The bike runs nice up to about 5k rpm then bog s bit so I have more to do I will post pics of my fuel pipe mod later tonite.I also changed my brake fluid it had the color of maple syrup.I floated new fluid on top of the old and used a syringe to suck the old crap out.That kept the me from getting air in the lines,then I opened the bleeder and let new fluid run through the whole system.I picked up a one man brake kit from the Auto store.

650ed wrote: Be sure to check the Kawasaki manual on measuring the fork oil level from top of tube. The instructions may vary from model to model. On my KZ650 the distance is measured with the springs in place. Ed

Seriously? I set mine to roughly 390 mm from the top without springs. If I should set that level with the springs there would hardly be enough oil left to prevent things from squeaking

The most userfriendly way to list the level would be with a compressed fork and no springs.

BTW, Kevin; before measuring level, remember to pump the fork several times to get rid of the air bubbles, or it will seems like you have more oil/higher level that what's the case.

Faffi,

I believe you have the KZ650-B1 forks. If so, the fork oil should be measured with the front wheel off the ground, the springs in, and the forks fully extended. The KZ650-B1 oil level from the top of the inner fork tube should be 385mm according to the first edition Kawasaki KZ650 Shop Manual or 402mm for the B1 in a later edition Kawasaki Service Manual. Afterwards, button things up and pump the forks several times, then jack up the front wheel and recheck the level. The manual specifies measuring the fork oil with the springs in (see pic below), but judging by the different oil level recommendations in the 2 manuals it would appear that the distance doesn't need to be measured with super accurate micrometers. :laugh: