THIS TIME ITS A DRAGBIKE

LarryC wrote: Retorque the cylinder head NOW....before you run it anymore. Make sure it's stone cold when you do it. Then do it again one more time after you get some runs on it.

Larry, would you give a brief rundown on how this should be done? Might be beneficial to all. Thanks
Wayne

what larry is talking about is when building the motor the head bolts need to be torqued to a deteremend amount of pressure which is - stock head bolts 36 ft. pounds on a torque wrench -- heavey duty head bolts around 42 ft.lbs. after starting the motor it builds heat which makes the gaskets - gasket sealer - even the head will all settle in and there is a a chance that the head wont seal and it will leak retorqueing the bolts make sure the head is sealed. larry might go alittle deeper than this and i would listen to him but this is pretty close. class is over :woohoo:

JEFFG1 wrote: what larry is talking about is when building the motor the head bolts need to be torqued to a deteremend amount of pressure which is - stock head bolts 36 ft. pounds on a torque wrench -- heavey duty head bolts around 42 ft.lbs. after starting the motor it builds heat which makes the gaskets - gasket sealer - even the head will all settle in and there is a a chance that the head wont seal and it will leak retorqueing the bolts make sure the head is sealed. larry might go alittle deeper than this and i would listen to him but this is pretty close. class is over :woohoo:

So you back off one at a time and retorqe it?
Wayne

no you dont back them off you just retorque them starting from the center working your way out. some or all may not move at all, but it is very easy and makes you feel better after doing it.

OK, now I remember! I wonder if there is any harm in doing so to a motor with a few thousand on the rebuild?

JEFFG1 wrote: no you dont back them off you just retorque them starting from the center working your way out. some or all may not move at all, but it is very easy and makes you feel better after doing it.

kzz1king give it a try? i retorqued the head and took it out on the road in frt. of the house to check everything out. had to work on the carbs not all of the slides where opening at the same time, got that fixed and adjested the air screw run like a top checked the air clutch worked great nice deal pull it in hold a button let go of the lever it stay untill you let off of botton your gone. set the rev. limiter to 5400 it worked but blowed the tire loose. also tested the air shift i think it is ready to go.the only thing i didnt test was the autoshift to dangeres on the road. cant wait :woohoo:

boy this has been a week from hell or heaven all in the way you look at it, on top of me trying to get mine done 2 weeks ago my son had his at the track on the line the lite turned green and the rear wheel and hub blow up in many peices and then there was only 2 gears in the trans :ohmy: so the last 4 days we tore his motor out split the cases and replaced the trans. - shift forks the whole deal last nite at about 10.o/c got the motor back in i can see tonite will be another long one i guess thats the price you pay if your going to play.

What's those gauges off of Jeff? They look good!

Les

Les,

I believe those are the ones that Dime City Cycles sells. www.dimecitycycles.com I have bought some really cool stuff from them. Lots of DYI components and odds & ends. They sell mechanical and electronic gauges.

Cory

iam not sure what them gauges are he most likly got them off ebay

who wants to play ( pass time ) most of you have read this build and know what the bike is built with as far as motor ect. so i am taking it to the track tomarrow for the first time and if anybody would like to guess what it will run i would be intrested in what you think. then sunday i will post the time slips there is no $2000.00 to win but it might be fun to see who gets close.like they say the burnouts never lie.

10.0's at 135mph, 60 ft's in the mid 1.80's to 1.90's.

Just guessing :blush:

Les