Testarossa's 78 KZ1000 Fighter Build

Ilike that tail light.looks very bright.Iam just about in the same place you are with my wiring.spent about 4 hours in the garage saturday only to get just the tail light brake light working.I looked into my wiring diagram and the wiring colors flipped on me right at the starter solenoid.swapped them around and voala it cranks. also my bike has some reserve lighting deal.finally figured that out.what did you come up with to provide a temp. gas supply?I am running for now just the stock ignition. checked it last night with plug out while cranking and I have a pretty decent spark.will be refering back to your install of the dyna in the future.

Very cool. i like the flashing.
i've forgotten? did u post all of whats involved for that led conversion and flasher, in here somewhere?

mark1122 wrote:

Very cool. i like the flashing.
i've forgotten? did u post all of whats involved for that led conversion and flasher, in here somewhere?

Mark, I showed the physical mounting stuff, but not the wiring. It's really simple once you figure out which wires on the new taillight operate which functions. They didn't send a detailed wiring diagram since it had the connectors to plug into the R6 factory harness. I actually hardwired it into the original KZ taillight connector, so it plugs in just like a stocker.

Camaroguy, I will steal the gas tank off my son's go-kart for a temp. fuel source. He will be pissed off at me for it, but he can deal for a couple of days. That kid doesn't miss anything.

nothing like getting closer to starting it up.....slow...then fast.....then it slows down again...then one day your close...like you are now...way to stay on it....time to boogie down soon....

testarossa wrote:

mark1122 wrote:

Very cool. i like the flashing.
i've forgotten? did u post all of whats involved for that led conversion and flasher, in here somewhere?

Mark, I showed the physical mounting stuff, but not the wiring. It's really simple once you figure out which wires on the new taillight operate which functions. They didn't send a detailed wiring diagram since it had the connectors to plug into the R6 factory harness. I actually hardwired it into the original KZ taillight connector, so it plugs in just like a stocker.


so u bought a plug in led unit for the r6 lt?
did u need anything else to make it flash?

mark1122 wrote:

so u bought a plug in led unit for the r6 lt?
did u need anything else to make it flash?[/quote]

No, the taillight included the sequential flaser unit. I actually seems to work with either a constant 12v input or with the pulsed input from the standard flasher can. I currently need the regular flasher to operate the front turn signals, so the taillight gets the pulsed 12v from the normal KZ wiring. It even keeps time with the front turn signals.

I see.
It looks great. well done.

Well I finished wiring up the Dyna this afternoon. I couldn't really do a better job of describing how to do it than the instructions. The wiring is straightforward in my opinion. I did notice one thing confusing about the timing instructions, so I'll walk through that in case anyone else plans on installing this ignition.

First you remove the stock timing cover and all the components of the points ignition. Next you replace the stock rotor with the one that Dyna provides:



Then you install the Dyna crank trigger plate:



Leave the screws loose at this point so you can rotate the plate when timing the bike. Make sure to connect the four pin connector to the main harness for the ignition.

Next it instructs you to remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine until the trigger for cyls. 2 and three lights the LED on the control box. Then you rotate the plate until the the led is lit at the 40* mark. Now you tighten the three mounting screws and lock the timing in place.



I set my control box atop the clutch cover to see the LED while turning the engine.



With the timing correct for 2 and 3, you move on to adjusting the timing for 1 and 4. Here's where I was somewhat confused. It says to rotate the engine 180* to the same 40* mark for cylinders 1 and 4. You are then supposed to move that particular sensor to light the LED. I couldn't tell from the instructions, which sensor was for 1 and 4. I just tried one and of course it was wrong. Then I had to re-do 2 and 3. Now back to 1 and 4. The proper sensor to adjust is the left one that I pointed to in the next pic:



Now you just replace the timing cover and secure the wiring. The static timing is complete, and you should be able to start the bike.

Now with the ignition finished, there's only one thing left to get it started. I needed to check the float levels on the carbs. I used the clear tube method, and it's a good thing. All four were set so that the fuel level was even with the flange. With floats adjusted, I should be able to install the carbs and hit the switch, but wait. I have fuel dripping from the overflow on #2. What, I just adjusted the float how could that be.

Well I stripped the float bowl off and discovered that the small brass overflow tube had a hairline crack that ran the length of the tube. So, in the interest of getting her started, I soldered the tube, and it seems to be holding for now. Not sure how it cracked or if it will hold, so I'll be looking for a float bowl and two of the chrome caps to fix the issues with this carb set.

Ok, so I install the carbs, air filters, and hook up the throttle linkage. Connect the go-kart gas tank, and say a little prayer.



IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome! Feels great, doesn't it?

:woohoo: WOOOOOHOOOOO! You even beat my time estimate by half a week. Now, I predict first ride this weekend

Awesome! Did u run it long enough to get dizzy from the fumes?