TOPIC:

It would mean quite a bit of extra fab work, but could you make one of those braces bolt on? That way you get most of the strength but with removable ingress/egress of the cylinder head. I'm thinking one side could remain welded..?

So I'll rethink the braces this weekend.

Now I need help with the chain clearance issue. Does anyone have experience running a chain with only 1/8" to the tire or the frame? My instincts tell me that this isn't enough. So I'm leaning toward running a 5/8" offset and clearancing the frame. Mark, how did you do it? I'm thinking of getting a rosebud for my torch. Heat up the affected area and bend it inward somehow? Or do I cut out the section and weld in a patch plate? Again, my insticts say not to cut into the frame tubes.

OMR, how is your 1/8" clearance to the frame doing? Does it ever hit? I'm thinking that the clearance at the frame can be smaller since the chain will be restrained by the front sprocket. It's just that the middle of the chain passes right by the tire and I guess that is where it would hit. It wouldn't be the end of the world if it scuffed the tire a bit, but I'd rather not.

Mark, what is your advice about running a 5/8" offset? Anybody else with actual experience here? Your ideas and opinions are all appreciated.

BTW, OMR you are absolutely right. New chain is the only way to go here. Heck the o-rings were falling out of my original 630 chain. Don't think that would last too long. My previous experience says to replace all chain and sprockets together. Any one worn component will prematurely wear the others.

I just received the spring compressor. U went over and beyond . It looks awesome. Thank you very much.

1/8"does sound tight , but it would likely work.
I cant give u exact #'s on mine right now, as i have the rear end off. but i will put it back on tomorrow and give u some accurate #'s.
as for clearancing the frame rails for the chain.
Both methods u have mentioned are used. I chose to heat the inside of the rail with a torch, and then squeeze it in flat with a C clamp. we just worked the C clamp, and torch, up and down the rail till we were happy. This was the easiest method for me since i done have the equipt to do this myself, i have to pay to have all of my work done. I am very pleased with the results.
I have seen others that cut a section out (like the diam of a 4 1/2" angle grinder disk?)and put in a round section of large diameter pipe. if this doesn't make scene , say so, and i will try to clarify.i'm shure the chain would still ride up on this though.
Others have put in a rectangular section. Not sure if u would loose any strength with this method?
I was surprised at how far the chain will actually ride up the frame rail, as the chain stretches. i need to squeeze mine in a little further up, as it is scraping the paint up high, still.
I thing to keep in mind is , if u use a chain with a master link clip. u don't want the clip to rub on anything that may dislodge it.

You confirmed my suspicions. Did you have to clearance the aluminum cover? I plan on starting with a master clip until decide on the final drive ratio. I want to hit a sweet spot at cruise speed, so I'll have to experiment. Is there any specific rpm where these motors get resonant vibes? I hate when you ride a bike that forces you to deal with a vibration at your preferred cruise speed.

i use a stock gearing and cruise at 4000rpm.no real buzz issue.
i gutted the inside of the sprocket cover , then i shimmed it out with a couple of washers behind each bolt. this forced me to lengthen the shifter rod.
U will also have to grind off the inside,lower foot peg bolt hole boss. the chain will hit it.
if u use aluminum motor mounts, u may hit it with the chain as well. Tk11b40, Ted made me up a roller to solve this problem.
There are a lot of great, and helpful guys here on KZR.

testarossa wrote:

Could u just make them shorter and slide them into the corner more? thats what i did with mine , but to be honest , i dont know if i could take the block off. i just had them put on with the motor still in it.I hope its not a problem, but i would likely pull the motor any ways, if i had to take the block off.

Mark, you read my mind. If I modify them, then they will get shortened and moved up. However, I will see if I can remove the motor with the block attached. If so, then they will stay. They look too cool peeking out from under the tank. Just a subtle clue that the frame is less than stock. The kind of thing that will get an observant persons attention.

BTW you're scaring me with all of the things that the chain can hit. I was planning on removing the stock lower footpeg mount anyway. Do they press out after all of the nuts are off? Seems like I removed everything from one and hit it with the hammer. It didn't move! So do I push it out or cut it off?

What speed are you cruising at 4000 rpm with? What rpm does it vibrate at? It seems like all I-4s have some speed that they want to vibrate at.

testarossa wrote:

I was planning on removing the stock lower footpeg mount anyway. Do they press out after all of the nuts are off? Seems like I removed everything from one and hit it with the hammer. It didn't move! So do I push it out or cut it off.

Have you removed the nut from the back side of the frame? The studs screw into the frame boss and then has a jam nut on the back side of the frame. You may have to grip the stud with a pair of locking pliars to turn it as they are stubborn sometimes.

Later, Doug

I use a 1/2" offset 17 tooth 530 chain front sproket on mine. It is close but chain does not hit or rub frame or tire. Here is a picture. Check out more pics on my build.

testarossa wrote:

They look too cool peeking out from under the tank. Just a subtle clue that the frame is less than stock. The kind of thing that will get an observant persons attention.

So COOL. I like your way of thinking.It's like a little tease , is't it . lol

BTW you're scaring me with all of the things that the chain can hit. I was planning on removing the stock lower footpeg mount anyway. Do they press out after all of the nuts are off? Seems like I removed everything from one and hit it with the hammer. It didn't move! So do I push it out or cut it off?


U just grind off the inner boss. they are welded in.Don't get carried away with chain clearance , until u get a sprocket and chain on there. if u end up only needing a 1/2" offset, u wont need to worry about this stuff. It's only when u use a 5/8" offset, that u have chain to frame issues.

What speed are you cruising at 4000 rpm with? What rpm does it vibrate at? It seems like all I-4s have some speed that they want to vibrate at.

I cant remember exactly, but i'd say around 55mph,4000rpm.
i don't have a vibration .but my mirrors do have a bad vibe, at anything above about 3000? my memory really sucks.
If u are not in a big hurry, i could send u my used 5/8" 630 offset sprocket.
I had to mill material off of my rear hub to move the sprocket closer to the tire.
Every bike will be a little dif. u have to put the rear wheel in the middle then try to align the sprockets, and see what u have.depending on the arm and wheel and whatnot. just mock it up and start scratching your head.It will come to you.we can tell u what we had to do to make our projects work, but dont think that yours will be exactly the same. Its all about compromise. u try your best to get the wheel aligned with the front wheel, but as i found out, it's not always possible.

my tire to chain clearance is 5.5mm. there is no chain rubbing whats so ever. the frame to chain clearance is 4.mm. and the chain is rubbing on the frame.

Damn Mark, I'd have never thought that the line between rubbing and not rubbing would be as fine as 1.5mm! It must be that you've got your chain wound so tight!