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Torque Wrench Question 26 Aug 2006 09:01 #72641

  • Mandrake
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I'd like someone to recommend a torque wrench for 3/8 sockets. I'm looking for one that is very user friendly. The one I have has a very poor way of making adjustments and I'm just not sure if my settings are close. What do you use?

Thanks
Mandrake

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Torque Wrench Question 27 Aug 2006 17:06 #72859

  • ltdrider
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A torque wrench needs to be accurate enough to be worth using.
I think the break-away type are the best because you can dial up the torque you want, and then just pull until the wrench 'breaks' at the proper torque. These type also come in ratcheting versions, so they work just like a ratchet wrench. Don't use a torque wrench to break torque, and dont drop it.
I have a WW Graingers close, they sell a brand called Proto. It's pretty good, but will cost you $100 to $200, depending on the size.
But most hardware/tool stores sell torque wrenches. Most members would probably advise you to stay away from Harbor Freight.
'76 KZ900 LTD (Blaze)
'96 Voyager XII (Dark Star)
'79 KZ650 Cafe Project (Dirty Kurt)
Greensboro, NC

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Torque Wrench Question 27 Aug 2006 17:48 #72862

  • Biquetoast
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Mandrake wrote:

...I'm looking for one that is very user friendly...

I have a couple, one from Craftsman and one from whatever they sell at autozone. I have to admin I never thought about it before, but I do believer the Craftsman could be called "more user-friendly". I think it makes it very obvious what setting you're on.

I just saw on speed tv today that they now have digital torque wrenches, that can be had for a mere $300 and up... :blink: You just type in the setting, and it beeps when you hit the setting...
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
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Torque Wrench Question 28 Aug 2006 20:31 #73113

  • dammitjim
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Personally I like the cheap clicker one they sell at Harbor Freight. You can get is for under $20 when they go on sale, which is often.

It looks exactly like the one that is sold at the Tire Rack, and works as well as my old $80 Craftsman did. I trust it for stuff like wheels and suspension bits but wouldn't try to rebuild and engine with it.

AFAIK if you drop a torque wrench you can no longer trust it's calibration, and a recalibration is very expensive. One of the things I like about the HF is that if I do drop it, I can just toss it and get a new one, no sweat.

If you've got the cash, go with a Snap-on, but for sub-$100 ones I think HF is the way to go.

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