New Member with few questions on my 1980 KZ1000 B4
- LewisT
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New Member with few questions on my 1980 KZ1000 B4
Yesterday 15:03 - Yesterday 16:05
What is up gents. Am new to the site here and thankful a forum like this exists that can help me get my ’80 KZ1000 LTD back on the road. Its my first and only bike, purchased over 30yrs ago. It hasn’t been on the road for over 5+yrs so I’m trying to work through a few things that I am going to need your help with. It’s a bone stock 1980 KZ1000 – B4 LTD, equipped with the stock Mikuni VM28SS carbs (w/airbox). I’ve changed all the fluids (brake, fork, engine oil and filter), gone through the ignition system (ie checked voltage and connections through the system, new plugs, checked coils, pick-up coils, plug caps, resistor), and pulled, cleaned, and relubed the drive chain. Am now down to the carbs which I have pulled and sonic cleaned and am now reassembling and have a few questions. So the carbs are stock Mikuni VM28SS with the idle mixing screw found on the side of carb (was factory capped) and with an accelerator pump on carb #2. The carb slides themselves have a small notch on the bottom (notch is facing towards the engine, see photo). So here are my questions:
(1) I drilled out / removed the factory installed plugs covering the idle mixing screws. All four of the idle mixing screws bottomed out at 1 1/8 to 1 ¼ turns. For reinstall, does this setting still sound correct to you?
(2) I need to manually set the slides. My Clymer book (which doesn’t cover the B4 LTD) says to set the slide (from the engine side) so that there is .5mm to .7mm of clearance between the bottom of the slide and the bore. My slides all have a small notch in bottom of them SO is this .5mm to .7mm measurement made within the slide notch OR is it made immediately to the right or left of the notch? Have a look at the photo.(3) Manual setting of floats: the Clymer book says prelim settings should be done as follows: turn carbs upside-down and check the float level. The float level should be 25-26mm above the carb body.
(4) I have a gravity petcock (2 outlets) and my carbs have 2 inlet T’s (1 each between carbs 1 &2 and 3&4). The primary setting on the petcock fed into the T between carbs 1&2 and the reserve setting on the petcock fed the T between carbs 3&4. Assume these connections are correct?That’s it for now. Am sure will be back with another 100 questions. Thanks in advance for your help.
(1) I drilled out / removed the factory installed plugs covering the idle mixing screws. All four of the idle mixing screws bottomed out at 1 1/8 to 1 ¼ turns. For reinstall, does this setting still sound correct to you?
(2) I need to manually set the slides. My Clymer book (which doesn’t cover the B4 LTD) says to set the slide (from the engine side) so that there is .5mm to .7mm of clearance between the bottom of the slide and the bore. My slides all have a small notch in bottom of them SO is this .5mm to .7mm measurement made within the slide notch OR is it made immediately to the right or left of the notch? Have a look at the photo.(3) Manual setting of floats: the Clymer book says prelim settings should be done as follows: turn carbs upside-down and check the float level. The float level should be 25-26mm above the carb body.
(4) I have a gravity petcock (2 outlets) and my carbs have 2 inlet T’s (1 each between carbs 1 &2 and 3&4). The primary setting on the petcock fed into the T between carbs 1&2 and the reserve setting on the petcock fed the T between carbs 3&4. Assume these connections are correct?That’s it for now. Am sure will be back with another 100 questions. Thanks in advance for your help.
Last edit: Yesterday 16:05 by Street Fighter LTD.
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- Nessism
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Re: New Member with few questions on my 1980 KZ1000 B4
Yesterday 16:33
Welcome to the forum! That's a great story about keeping your bike all these years.
First off, Clymer's manuals are pretty iffy. Better than nothing, but I'd get a factory manual for better info. You can check the Filebase here to see if there is a free download.
1.5 turns open on the pilot air screw is a good starting point. After you get the bike up and running, tweak this setting until you achieve the highest idle speed for each carb.
The slide height setting is just to get the engine started. Just make sure each slide is roughly equally set, and once you get the engine running, perform a vacuum sync and set the idle speed where you like.
First off, Clymer's manuals are pretty iffy. Better than nothing, but I'd get a factory manual for better info. You can check the Filebase here to see if there is a free download.
1.5 turns open on the pilot air screw is a good starting point. After you get the bike up and running, tweak this setting until you achieve the highest idle speed for each carb.
The slide height setting is just to get the engine started. Just make sure each slide is roughly equally set, and once you get the engine running, perform a vacuum sync and set the idle speed where you like.
Ed
Carb O-ring Kits : www.kzrider.com/forum/14-vendor-forum/62...rburetor-o-ring-kits
www.kzrider.com/forum/faq-wiki/618026-new-owner-things-to-know
1981 KZ750E2
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/604901...z750e-project-thread
Carb O-ring Kits : www.kzrider.com/forum/14-vendor-forum/62...rburetor-o-ring-kits
www.kzrider.com/forum/faq-wiki/618026-new-owner-things-to-know
1981 KZ750E2
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/604901...z750e-project-thread
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