Im wondering if my cylinder head is the right one for my engine

I have a 1977 KZ1000 , I have worked on this barn find for 7 months. I took it apart piece by piece and painted the frame and everything. I put it back together up to the cylinder head and realized that the exhaust valves are sinking all the way down to the valve stem. I bought new valves and they seem to be the same size as the ones that came out. This bike was running when I started, but it would not stay running and had some trouble starting. I don't want to give up on this project because my friends father was the owner, and he now has alzheimers. I know that my friend really wants to see the bike running again. Every time I come to a problem my heart sinks. I want to finish so bad. I really need some help determining if the engine is original and the head is the right one. The exhaust cyclinders seem to be wider than the valves from the start, but if thats the case why did it run? My friend says that his father bought the bike brand new in 78, and he stopped riding because he didn't want his son to ride bikes, so he stopped. It only had 5k miles when I found it. I have spent over 1k on tools and parts, now looks like I need a new cylinder head but I just dont understand why. I am thinking about going down to brewton, AL. to the motorcycle graveyard.      

Welcome 
Why are you showing us the valve  where the spring and retainer go ?
Stick it in the cylinder head combustion chamber and then show us 
Dave

Yes, the valves are installed from the other side of the head. The spring seat, springs, retainers, split collars and cam follower go in the recess where you are holding the valve.
That looks like the correct head for that model.

See the diagram on page 15.
www.kzrider.com/filebase-alias?task=down...id=1177&catid=20&m=0

   That looks like a very good resto candidate.  Not easy to find KZ1K's in good, unrestored condition like that.  

With only 5K on the motor it's barely broken in.  Unless it was seriously abused before being stored, it would have been best to leave the head & likely the entire motor unmolested unless it was stuck.  Run problems after sitting for years are most likely with the carbs (easily addressed) & maybe points & ignition timing, not the motor internals.  A simple compression test would have told the tale.

   Hopefully, you labeled & recorded everything during head disassembly, i.e. location of intake & exhaust valves for every cylinder, shim buckets, shims and valve retainers likewise, so everything can go back where it came from, retaining the original clearances.  Likewise pistons & rings.  If so, we'd be tempted to reassemble the head with every OEM part in it's original position, but replace the valve seals with new from Mama Kaw while it's disassembled.  Maybe lap the valves very lightly. or not, if a fluid test shows good sealing.

   A pic of the combustion chambers would be useful, close enough to see if any cracks between the valve seats & plug holes.

   You'll likely not find a complete head in that good condition at any bike junkyard unless it's $$$$.

   You'll need two torque wrenches, one reading  in. lbs., the other reading ft. lbs. for motor reassembly.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Is it April the 1st already ????

Don't know if these will help at all, but these are pics of my origi nal head from my 77 kz 1000 a-1 model.