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New User Says THANK YOU!
- themuteherald
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- Patton
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15 May 2013 01:53 #587479
by Patton
If not already done, be sure to perform the clutch push-rod adjustment, which might resolve the clutch issue.
Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose
[This is a 1 minute job from start to finish, maybe 2 minutes the first time.]
The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:
Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessaily have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.
The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:
Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.
end of excerpt
While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch pushrod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual, proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch pushrod adjustment.
Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch pushrod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic New User Says THANK YOU!
Hello, themuteherald, and WELCOME to KZr!themuteherald wrote: ...84 KZ700...replacing the clutch....
If not already done, be sure to perform the clutch push-rod adjustment, which might resolve the clutch issue.
Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose
[This is a 1 minute job from start to finish, maybe 2 minutes the first time.]
The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:
Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessaily have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.
The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:
Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.
end of excerpt
While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch pushrod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual, proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch pushrod adjustment.
Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch pushrod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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15 May 2013 01:56 #587480
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic New User Says THANK YOU!
The clutch pushrod adjustment is supposed to provide a slight gap between the clutch actuator and the push rod, which assures the clutch plates are fully engaged when the handlebar clutch lever isn't being squeezed.
A few manuals are incorrect.
Some models are designed to first turn the adjustment screw clockwise until it seats (zero gap) and then turn it counter-clockwise 3/8 turn to provide the necessary gap.
Other models are designed to first turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise until it seats (zero gap) and then turn it clockwise 3/8 turn to provide the necessary gap.
If the procedure as prescribed in the manual fails to produce proper clutch function, reverse the adjustment screw turning instructions and see what happens.
Good Fortune!
A few manuals are incorrect.
Some models are designed to first turn the adjustment screw clockwise until it seats (zero gap) and then turn it counter-clockwise 3/8 turn to provide the necessary gap.
Other models are designed to first turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise until it seats (zero gap) and then turn it clockwise 3/8 turn to provide the necessary gap.
If the procedure as prescribed in the manual fails to produce proper clutch function, reverse the adjustment screw turning instructions and see what happens.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- themuteherald
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