New in Arizona

Today I picked up a 1980 KZ750 LTD.

The seller was nice enough to post this video before I took a look at it.


Paid $550, all electrical works, turns over and starts with a little starting fluid. It is currently out of gas I think, so I will find out for sure if it can run or not.

The PO said he had the carbs professionally redone and is in need of a sync. I feel it is something more, how professional can a carb mechanic be without a sync tool? But I will get more into that later when I am able to work on it.

I am not new to these style bikes. I have had to do almost everything you can think of with my KZP and my XJ650. I always received a lot of help from the members at www.xjbikes.com so I am hoping I have the same experience here.

I look forward to hearing any opinions and suggestions for this bike.

-Zach

A guide on cleaning the electrical connections on these older bikes:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting),
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.


The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

Electrical Connectors, Wire, And supplies
www.easternbeaver.com
www.vintageconnections.com
www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=KPEL1
www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu
www.electricalconnection.com
www.electricalconnection.com/electrical-components/hitachi.htm
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination&page=1
www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/butt_connectors.htm
www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html
www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-Bullet-...lectrical/Categories
www.surplussales.com/SolderlessTerminals/WireTerminals-3.html
www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=32...&width=1436&height=0

Thanks for the electrical advice. I didn't look too much at all the connections but everything seems surprisingly clean.

Took the carbs off today and found a lot of sediment in the bowls. It seems as though someone put some liner in the gas tank and is not doing too well.

Welcome Zach, looking forward to your project.

Good luck,
Jim

ravenz07 wrote:

Took the carbs off today and found a lot of sediment in the bowls. It seems as though someone put some liner in the gas tank and is not doing too well.

Hello, ravenz07, and WELCOME to KZr!

Carbs may need re-cleaning.

Accessory in-line filter(s) installed?

Deteriorated Kreem liner may be removed with acetone. But be careful, as acetone eats paint.

Good Fortune!

There was (is) an filter on the fuel line. After I get everything going I will definitely replace it.

I haven't dove into the carbs yet, but already I know I will be polishing out the bore for the piston slides. 2 would stick open.

I was reading on another site that ETHYL METHYL KETONE ( MEK) is a useful chemical for getting it out. Any thoughts on that? Im not worried about the paint. It seems as though when whoever did the liner, they spilled the liner prep chemicals on the side so I will have to repaint it.

ravenz07 wrote:

...reading on another site that ETHYL METHYL KETONE ( MEK) is a useful chemical for getting it out. Any thoughts on that? Im not worried about the paint. It seems as though when whoever did the liner, they spilled the liner prep chemicals on the side so I will have to repaint it.

I've had good success with acetone, but understand MEK also works.
Google Kreem Removal for several articles on the subject.

Am most content without any liner (Kreem, POR-15, Red Kote, etc.)

Where paint protection isn't an issue, would suggest the alternative of having it Hot Tanked at a radiator shop.

Good Fortune!

I have some hydrochloric acid, should I give that a try?

I would agree with the hot tank, but typically hot tanks will cover the object with copper residue from the radiators. I had a set of heads done that I had to have put in a hot tank.

Acetone seems to be doing the trick so far.