Guess I'm a new KZ owner!

Didn't know it 24hrs ago but I'm now a new owner of a '76 KZ400. It will be great to get to know about this cycle and learn how to fix and maybe restore it into better shape then it already is. The first trip on it, bringing it home did create some stress. It stalled out and wouldn't start again. After sitting a bit it did start up by using the kick starter! Yeah I made it home. Until I figure out how to post pics here please look at my cycle blog for the pics:

stevescycletripsmore.blogspot.com/

Is there any advice first off? Oh on my way home I did realize there is an oil leak coming from somewhere and the left fork seal is not good. Oh well, the fun begins!

-steve
Rochester, MN

Welcome to KZR, You might want to check the fuel system from the tank to carbs. If it sat for any length of time the carbs could be gummed up causing it to stall

Welcome Steve, I started my KZ adventure with a '79 kz400....learned alot. First thing is to start looking for a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Lots more info than Clymers. When I got mine, I flushed the tank, cleaned the carbs, and chased down some electrical shorts. Adjusting the valve clearences is alot easier on the small twins than on the fours...miss that. Fork seals are pretty easy, once you figure out how to get them apart (check archive)

Have fun!

Welcome to KZR nation Steve luck on your bike.

Link14 wrote:

cleaned the carbs,

Today: went out to the garage and it started right up. Took it for a spin around the block. Came home and the she died right there. I let it sit for a while and came back, still couldn't get it started. Let is sit again, came back again and tried to start it and it backfired a couple times, still wouldn't start. I just pushed it into the garage for another day.

Oh last night I took it out before putting it in bed for the night, went to a friends house. shut it off, started it a few times and everything was alright. So I'm not sure what to do next. Kinda the reason I wanted the cycle in the first place - TO LEARN something I don't know, i've never cleaned carbs before.

So is that my first step? If I'm going to clean them should I buy a rebuild kit? Found one place it would be $13 for the kit. I found an article/manual that said there is a special tool and gauge to set the carbs to the right adjustment. Will I need this?

Thanks in advance... should this question been in another section?

-steve

Carb Cleaning 101

By M. Shively

The elements of internal combustion engines are: correct fuel/air ratio, spark at right time, and adequate cylinder compression.

There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also effect performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.


Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the butt or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve's spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve's tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or veneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

I looked on the kawasaki website and didn't recognize your carbs, so I don't have specific information for you, but the info Mfolks posted explains most of it. Before you go pulling the carbs, since removing them can be a chore, you might try opening the drain line on the carbs and setting the petcock to prime to try flushing things out. Is there a fuel filter on the fuel line between the petcock and the carbs? If not, put one on. If so, check to make sure it isn't clogged. Also you might want to check your battery voltage and also see if you're getting a good spark....your symptoms don't necessarily point to carbs.

Since you have another bike, if you do want to pull the carbs to clean them, then see if any parts need replacing, that's one way to do it.

Good Luck!

MFolks, Thanks for the great information. Didn't have anytime today to look at it or work on it. However, did go to get the title changed ...

Disappointment #2, (#1 was it has stopped running): Here in MN the title is linked to the frame #, however when the title was issued to the guy I got the cycle from the engine # was used and that had one # missed up on that. The gal at the DMV was really helpful and told me I could just have the title issued in mine name with the same problems "as is" and it could be a problem if I were to sell it or something in the future. I dunno, will this end up being a "part bike" and now i've got the bug for this KZ i'll start looking for another. We'll see.

Got a feeling this is going to be a real adventure.

Goal #1: get it running good and learn how it really works.

Goal #2: get the title into my name

If I can get those two things done this season i'll be happy.

Nice and hello from another KZ Newb. I just recently purchased an 80 KZ1000B and yesterday got a 76 KZ900. There is lots of great info. here.

GOOD NEWS Got a call today from the DMV lady who was helping me out. She did some research for me and found out that the title was typed in wrong when it was transferred to MN from WI. There is just some paper work and I should have a clean title with my name on it! I'll go and talk to her tomorrow. She was really helpful and told me she had already filled out most of the paperwork for me.

Now to get this cycle running again....