Home Upgrade Project...

Nice score there Ness, I have been eyeballing one of the small bench lathes made of chinesium for quite some while now.
probably good enough for my needs aneeding ad one can find one with a spindle wider than 20mm and metal gears. So it can accommodate a steering rod and swing axel.

Happy chipping.

/A

 

Wheelhop wrote:

blipco wrote:

Here’s my lighting for my 12x16 foot shed with a fairly high roof.
I have ten 90 watt led, one high output highway tunnel led fixture which will burn your retinas if you look directly at it and two homemade brake rotor fixtures on a separate switch for ambiance. I’m an electrician and I like light.
There are six receptacles including one on a separate switch for the stereo.

Not shown is the fact that the whole shed is plugged into an outside receptacle under my back porch, LOL.

  

The "Shed-Mahal" !!  Nice, I love it.

___>>> Sometimes we’ll sit and listen to the stereo with just the ambiance lights, drinking whiskey, shooting the bull.
We refer to ourselves as "shedouins".
 

Street Fighter LTD wrote:

Blipco
I deleted  your last post 
It was corrupted   Seems like your attachment was all code and no pictures 
Try again but be careful with the pictures
Dave

This happenes if you drag'n drop a picture into the text area and not into the attachment area! You will get a very loooong cryptic text addon!

Nerdy wrote:

Nessism wrote:

Yeah, I used underground rated PVC pipe to house 6g copper wire.  The house breaker is 50A, but I used 40A in the new sub-panel.  The in-garage wire, from the panel to the outlet, is 8g.  While I was at it, I also ran a new 120V line to the side of the garage without power.  The garage needs more lighting, so that may be the next project.

 

If I were re-doing the workshop, I would go with the native-LED (not converted) 4' lights: low power consumption and great looking output. I used the 4' fluorescent fixtures and while there are tube-shaped LED replacements, I don't want to switch over while I still have a box of fluorescent tubes. 

(The ballasts are still good.)

When my parents got a new shed several years ago, my brother ran the wiring and installed a metric boatload of those 4' LED fixtures. The shed could double as an operating room.

EDIT: if you're keeping some of the wiring and you have those ceramic lamp holders that take a single screw-in light bulb, you can get LED replacements for those. The replacements screw in as well, so they're really easy to use. Home Depot has some that have adjustable light color/temperature and look nice (plain white with frosted shades) and on Amazon I got some that are labeled "deformable lights", meaning they have three flat LED light pods that can be angled as you like. They're also super frickin' bright.

EDIT2: these are the Home Depot lights - www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-...g-54690111/300188965

 

This is a good idea.  I put an LED ceiling lamp into one bedroom and had to turn it down to the lowest setting, because it was too bright.  Just the thing, turned up to the highest setting, for my garage!  

Scirocco wrote:

Street Fighter LTD wrote:

Blipco
I deleted  your last post 
It was corrupted   Seems like your attachment was all code and no pictures 
Try again but be careful with the pictures
Dave

This happenes if you drag'n drop a picture into the text area and not into the attachment area! You will get a very loooong cryptic text addon!

___>>> Yes, that is exactly what happened. I tried the drag and drop because my photo album option would not appear when I clicked the attachment button.
 

Nerdy wrote:

Nessism wrote:

Yeah, I used underground rated PVC pipe to house 6g copper wire.  The house breaker is 50A, but I used 40A in the new sub-panel.  The in-garage wire, from the panel to the outlet, is 8g.  While I was at it, I also ran a new 120V line to the side of the garage without power.  The garage needs more lighting, so that may be the next project.





 

If I were re-doing the workshop, I would go with the native-LED (not converted) 4' lights: low power consumption and great looking output. I used the 4' fluorescent fixtures and while there are tube-shaped LED replacements, I don't want to switch over while I still have a box of fluorescent tubes. 

(The ballasts are still good.)

When my parents got a new shed several years ago, my brother ran the wiring and installed a metric boatload of those 4' LED fixtures. The shed could double as an operating room.

EDIT: if you're keeping some of the wiring and you have those ceramic lamp holders that take a single screw-in light bulb, you can get LED replacements for those. The replacements screw in as well, so they're really easy to use. Home Depot has some that have adjustable light color/temperature and look nice (plain white with frosted shades) and on Amazon I got some that are labeled "deformable lights", meaning they have three flat LED light pods that can be angled as you like. They're also super frickin' bright.

EDIT2: these are the Home Depot lights - www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-...g-54690111/300188965


~~~>>> Those round fixtures are native LED fixtures I bought at Home Depot. I had been looking to see how to light the shed. LED fixture technology seems to change weekly. I had considered four foot fixtures but there was a display standing in the isle that had those fixtures at 'two for $15 bucks'. They are normally $29 each. So at $7.50 each, my mind got made up. I even bought a couple of spares if one craps out.

Once you’re tired of changing ballasts, you can buy a replacement four foot led lamp that pops right into the tombstones in your fixture. You remove the ballast and wire 110 volts directly to the tombstones. Hot wire to one, neutral wire to the other. You’re done.
There are two types though… Don’t buy the led lamp that is designed to work with a ballast. Get the line voltage type so you can eliminate the ballast.
The type that works with the ballast is meant for large office retrofits where they just want to replace the tubes to save electricity costs without the labor expense of rewiring the fixtures and disposal cost of getting rid of the ballasts.
Removing the ballast and rewiring the fixture takes all of ten minutes but when you have hundreds of fixtures, it adds up.
Plus, once you remove the ballast, the fixture becomes as light as a feather. It is amazing how thin the metal on a fluorescent fixture.

Below is the fixture I used.





 

Fixed picture again LOL
CLICK insert all to complete the install
DD

Street Fighter LTD wrote:

Fixed picture again LOL

CLICK insert all to complete the install
DD


~~~>>> "Blipco, you are a wiz when it comes to computers", said no one to me ever. LOL.
Thanks, I’ll try to remember. Cheers.

New stand finished!  It's lower than the old sheet metal stand, and much more rigid.  Painted it with POR-15 primer, then alkyd enamel top coat w/hardener.  Chip tray and shelves also painted.  The paint is slow dry, so I'm going to give it a good week before fussing with it too much.

 

Nice lathe. I acquired an old Montgomery Ward 48" lathe from a friend. It came with a bunch of tooling I don't know what it's for or how to use it. I know that the original owner used to make guns with it. We rewired it because it was a little bit sketchy. It's saved our butts a couple of times already. Recently I made a set of Delrin swingarm bushings for the 78' KL 250. Someday I'll learn how to use more of the tooling.