paint racks?

Any of you "real" painters have any pics of paint racks you would be willing to post? What type rack for fenders? What type rack for a tank? What type rack for a tail piece? I have been painting on cardboard boxes and this doesn't work very well... Cheers

I don't do a lot of painting but do have some taught wires between columns in the shop and an assortment of 'S' hooks of varying lengths. The hooks can be combined for other lengths.

I hang the hooks on the wire and the part on the hooks.

If the part won't hang at a convenient angle I use additional wire to make a hanger for the part and then hang this wire on the hooks.

-Duck

wiredgeorge wrote:

Any of you "real" painters have any pics of paint racks you would be willing to post? What type rack for fenders? What type rack for a tank? What type rack for a tail piece? I have been painting on cardboard boxes and this doesn't work very well... Cheers

Don't have pics, but do have a suggestion for low-volume runs of similar parts...

Custom-building racks and such can be a pricey and time-consuming hobby. Bin there, dun that.

However, taking a wild guess that WG Carbs, Inc. isn't going to become a wholly owned subsidiary of WG Custom Paint, there is a pretty cheap and easy solution for securing the occasional parts run.

Get yourself a couple of cans of that "Crazy Foam" stuff - that goofy insulation goo that expands about 700 times as it dries.

Spray down the back-side of your parts - tank tunnel, inner fenders, sidecovers, whatever with WD-40 as a mold release.

Spray in foam. Let it do its thing.

{NOTE} To keep the foam from oozing out all over the place, it's a good idea to LOOSELY hold a piece of cardboard as backing as the foam expands - keeps the male-form back flat - easier to trim to ply backing. LOOSELY because that stuff expands like crazy, and would easily split a ducktail or sidecover if contained too tightly....

Pull the form and trim the excess. Glue the back side to a likewise-trimmed hunk of plywood backing - 1/4" will do fine.

Affix the form backing to a standard pipe tree-stand.

Viola - you have a form-specific stabilized stand for whatever part you want to shoot.

(Note) These forms are NOT a one-time-only deal - if you keep the form around, they're good for dozens of successive jobs as long as the foam stays in good shape.

Done it a bunch, works like a charm.

Happy methyl-isocyanate-ing... :laugh:

Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2006/11/09 11:36

I have painted for 25+ years, for painting small objects I have several "racks" two bar stools and a couple of fender type folding a frames, cardboard boxes will hold dust untill you spray paint then it goes on the paint work, I usually cover the "rack" with a coated or shiny paper (coarse paper,cloth cardboard or newspaper trap dust) and tack it off good before putting the piece on the rack, as far a specialty racks there is never enough room for them, so get a good foundation and clean work area, tack rags are the most important tool

Making paint racks out of that foam insulation is a good idea. I was thinking instead of using wd-40 to coat the parts before making the forms, how about using surar wrap to coat the parts instaed of the wd-40. I'm wondering if the faom will eat through the insulation. hmmmm. I guess there is only one way to find out.

tw.. wrote:

Making paint racks out of that foam insulation is a good idea.

Thanks. I got the idea from the packaging for Daniel radiator cores waaaaay back in the early 80's.

They'd shoot a glob of foam into the bottom of an empty box, drop in the core as the stuff went nuts, then spray a glob at the top end and close the box. Worked peachy.

... I was thinking instead of using wd-40 to coat the parts before making the forms, how about using surar wrap to coat the parts instaed of the wd-40. I'm wondering if the faom will eat through the insulation. hmmmm. I guess there is only one way to find out.

Hey, whatever works.

I used WD because that closed-cell gook is formaldehyde-based - it STICKS to raw surfaces.

Covering the form with Saran Wrap or some likewise clingy kid stuff would work as well, and it'd keep the dust out of the foam cells for later useage, as AG mentioned previously.

No such thing as an idea that can't be improved upon...

aluminum foil works well too.

behind the rear wheels of my car is a cavity that had rusted thru - lined the area with foil & shot in the foam stuff - works great!