how to: repaint your bike

thanks mykznme
really great imfo
i painted my kz750 twin years ago ,needs it again
wanted to ask you re the last step before cut and polish , is it better to cut with the fine grades before you cut and polish ,i never knew this ,pics were really good
thanks graeme

Guys, painting with a compressor is not that hard. I did it in my spare room one winter and got phenomenal results and a divorce :blush:
Anyway, the old ZX10 looks spectacular at the end. Primarily you need a compressor capable of at least 60 psi +, clean air - inline filters and a good gun. Even the shitty guns from Canadian Tire etc... do a half reasonable job.
I had my paint matched and mixed by the local shop. Explaining how I wanted to try it myself and why, I got plenty of great advice on how to do it, techniques and pressures required. Its a lot of fun and a learning experience.

WTF! wrote:

Guys, painting with a compressor is not that hard. I did it in my spare room one winter and got phenomenal results and a divorce :blush:
Anyway, the old ZX10 looks spectacular at the end. Primarily you need a compressor capable of at least 60 psi +, clean air - inline filters and a good gun. Even the shitty guns from Canadian Tire etc... do a half reasonable job.
I had my paint matched and mixed by the local shop. Explaining how I wanted to try it myself and why, I got plenty of great advice on how to do it, techniques and pressures required. Its a lot of fun and a learning experience.

the reason i wrote a rattlecan post first is because it is cheaper and easier.
painting/bodywork requires buying a whole new set of tools and 2part paint is alot more expensive.
you can buy 2 part auto paint at wallmart and true value but you probably wont find any metallics or decent colors and lets face it, with paint you get what you pay for.


greame
the finer your last "cut" is before polish,then the easier the final polishing will be.
also note that the harder your paint is the better it will polish. i usually let it cure for a week(time allowing) before the final sand and polish.

robjb84,
check pm

mykznme, I hope when you start chapter #2, you will start another thread. Steve or I can make it a sticky to keep the same format as this thread. I think rattlecan only in this thread would make for the best read/article later on for folks looking for rattlecan tips. I am especially interested in chapter #2 as I am at the point where I have to stop procrastinating and actually use the gun and paint I bought (from KL250). hehehe The project ST is progressing slooooowly! I took the engine cases, block and head to the powder coater yesterday for some black crinkle finish. When it gets back, and I put the engine back together, most all the other stuff is done and ready to reinstall... except for the bodywork and painting so don't hesitate to start chapter #2 in another thread if you are willing to give it a shot.

wiredgeorge wrote:

mykznme, I hope when you start chapter #2, you will start another thread. Steve or I can make it a sticky to keep the same format as this thread. I think rattlecan only in this thread would make for the best read/article later on for folks looking for rattlecan tips. I am especially interested in chapter #2 as I am at the point where I have to stop procrastinating and actually use the gun and paint I bought (from KL250). hehehe The project ST is progressing slooooowly! I took the engine cases, block and head to the powder coater yesterday for some black crinkle finish. When it gets back, and I put the engine back together, most all the other stuff is done and ready to reinstall... except for the bodywork and painting so don't hesitate to start chapter #2 in another thread if you are willing to give it a shot.

i tell ya what george, you convince someone to buy 2 part paint instead of rattlecan and i'll be happy to do the writeup.
once people found out that i would paint in rattlecan thats all they want because its cheap.
i'm(slowly) doing bodywork on a 73 camaro wich i could go over the basics with but it all depends on the camaro's owner on when we get to paint.
the bodywork is about 3/4 done but i dont work on his car until he calls me and tells me he has money.
its been this way for about 2 months now so it should be done sometime in 2014:lol:
heres the starting point. i'll get a couple of pics as it sits now the next time i head out there.

cheers,
joe

I have done rattle can stuff in the past with decent results but the finish isn't as durable as sprayed stuff with hardener. I put my tanks on and remove them so much and slop so much gas on them that rattle can doesn't hold up very well. I painted one of my carb test bikes with rattle can and it is looking pretty shabby after a years wear. Of course, I still have more cans on the shelf but I think it is time to learn some painting.

I have looked at body and paint newsgroups and the folks who hang out there are strange. Many don't like to share tips or even basics so I bought a book on painting. Since the NAPA store in Bandera sells paint (Martin Seynor?) that is what I will use since I don't feel like driving or messing with buying over the internet.

I plan on shooting the body parts from one of my project bikes on Sunday with primer. I bought two part high filling primer/sealer yesterday. I also bought laquer thinner for gun cleaning and a respirator as I have already lost enough brain cells on carb cleaner fumes and got measuring cup, strainer, mixer stuff, etc. I had already made a Wally run to get sanding stuff.

Not much bondo work, if any will need to be done on the tank that I am going to use. I know know how to bondo decently and have done it in the past. Bigger to feather is better and on clean/bare metal.

I will first adjust my gun spray on a trash can I guess. I will likely make tank stand and do the job out doors... hopefully it won't be windy. I am not going to paint in the shop as the overspray makes a mess and I don't have a booth. I will sand and tack cloth as needed. I have a good inline filter for the compressor hose which I will run straight UP out of the filter and then over before coming down to keep moisture out of the spray. I will drain the tank good before spraying.

When done, I want to use a urethane base/clear in medium red metallic (I have the GM part number somewhere). I haven't decided whether to use any pinstriping or not... I am confident I can do this as I have done this before using rattle can and sprayed clear over the striping. The tank is for an ST and is sort of boxy shaped. The area where your knees hit is sort of flat and on the OEM paint is painted a contrasting color. I don't care for this effect but am not sure how a stripe around the side edge of the tank would look any good based on the shape.

A friend did a mock-up of what the bike will more or less look like... The main difference is that the fork ears are powdercoat black instead of chrome and the pipes are 4 into 2 black MAC system and not a 4 into 1 chrome as shown in the pic. There will also be some differences in the engine. The cases, head and block are being powdercoated in crinkle black as we speak and the valve cover is already powdercoated black. I am going to polish the side covers and paint them similar to how they came from the factory I think... the alternator cover is polished, the bevel gear case cover was polished, the clutch cover polished but the edge painted and the points cover polished but the center painted (I think).

before you get clear and before you start to paint pm me as i have some pointers for using that paint i sold ya.

OK, I've got one for all you paint experts.
I am working on a bike that I would like to apply retroreflective paint to. I want it to light up like a highway sign in headlights at night. Color? Red and White.

-Duck

If it costs $50.00 to do a car, how much do you think it'll cost for a bike? This link is in all of the Auto fourums, It has a lot of pages but there is some good info there. moparts.org paint thread
My little POS Sentra needs some new color I am going to give a try

Post edited by: N0NB, at: 2007/04/26 13:29

this might be a stupid question, but on chrome parts that have small rust spots, is it possible to just remove the rust and not affect the luster? Or do I need to get it re-chromed....OR just forget about it? Hahaha

try some Nevr-dull, it'll remove the rust, but leave it a bit pitted..depends on how bad it actually is.

It'll shine the chrome up nicely though.

While this article is very informative, and I will be following it step by step, it doesnt say anything about plastic parts (side covers and tail section) these will be painted along with the tank. how should I go about sanding these before I start painting? there are a few scuffs and scrapes that are through the paint, and are actually into the black plastic. one cover also has a drill hole from the PO. I also want to fill in the indentations for the emblems for a smooth side cover (custom painted emblems are in the works). I read that I can fill the hole and indentations with JB Weld and then sand it. any pointers? thx
Scott