Filling in around the lettering on the cases?

I would like to fill in around the Kawasaki lettering on the engine cases, but not paint the engine, and have an idea.

I have a MAPP gas torch (it's old) with a max temp of around 3000F IIRC. The melting point of aluminum is about 1450F, also IIRC.

Would it work to melt a spare engine case with the torch and drip molten aluminum into the voids around the letters? This assumes that all parts are degreased and spotless and the area around the letters has been roughed up to provide a key (not sure if that matters).

The case being filled in would probably need to be very hot as well but short of melting temp (obviously). I'm picturing the melted material dripping an inch or so on to a surface that's maybe 1100F-1200F. Even with the temperatures of the work pieces fairly close, I don't know how well the molten stuff will stick to the not-molten.

There might be enough material in the case to allow the whole indented name area to be ground away, but I'd rather not remove so much. I also thought about removing the letters and leaving a rectangular volume of uniform depth, but I would like to have a smooth case (might polish it, might not). If I had a crucible I could melt the aluminum and get it to a higher temperature to reduce the viscosity.

So... good idea or ridiculous idea?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWhat motorcycle is it? Wondering if you could use different engine covers that have a removable label, instead of the cast lettering.

... 1983 KZ650-CSR pulsing coil cover without emblem/label.

It´s easier to remove the lettering on a lathe.

The problem is there is always a thick skin on the alloy, so the material underneath can liquefy before the surface melts. This really hinders any type of fusing new material onto old material without totally collapsing the old material.

A better solution would be something like Allumalloy. That is a different material and will fuse to the surface of your base metal as long as you clean it properly first. I've used that to fix cracked covers etc. with halfway decent results. But practice first, a lot, on something disposable.

I'm sure there are videos of it on youtube.

The engine is from a KZ440 LTD but will be going into a KZ440B frame.

I took a look at eBay and found an impressive number of NOS covers in various configurations. Thanks for the tip, Martin!

That sounds like a pretty good idea. Thanks, Lou!

My only concern would be if the Alumalloy didn't quite match the case and the fix would be visible when/if polished, but that's a minor concern and it probably wouldn't be too far off anyway. (I was thinking about melting the case because the material would be the same.) If I can't find suitable OEM covers, I'll probably go the Alumalloy route.

Scirocco: It´s easier to remove the lettering on a lathe.

I would need to use hand tools to that, but it is also an option.

Removing just the letters shouldn't affect the integrity of the piece - unless I make einen grossen Fehler. Danke!

Are you looking for a fix you can do? I was going to suggest just welding the letters up and grinding them back down smooth.