Is this tank toast??

I cleaned out the tank by using the method mentioned in the "Technical Tips" page (muriatic acid, naval jelly, wd-40),

The result is that some of these rust spots were removed, leaving some pin holes along the tank logo spot. Can this tank be saved? I read forums mentioning Caswell epoxy. Can I use that on the inside and just grind and Bondo the outside?

Additionally, how would you guys recommend I tackle this rust on the frame?

Replace the tank, repairs are difficult.

I would agree with 73z1. Unless you are on a tight budget and can fix it yourself then it would be best to replace it.

There will be more pin holes under the decal bracket. The bracket is dot welded 3 times in to the tank Depression and has to remove for further Investigation.
You can solder or let solder with tin the pin holes from the outside.

I could buy another tank but I feel badly and partly responsible for the tanks degradation. I guess that leads to me wanting to fix it. Also I am part of a community diy garage that focuses on old Japanese bikes (mostly Honda's) but they have a welder and grinder. I think it might be fun to learn a little fabrication! But that said, I am actively searching eBay.

We also have a partnership with a local powder coater. My fear is that they can't really do much for the inside of the tank. Like I said before, I cleaned the tank in accordance to the article posted on this site, but I'm not too sure this will be a permanent fix. I appreciate you taking time out of your day to respond.

Can't say I'm a fan of HCl for cleaning tanks. Phosphoric acid is much safer. You can buy a gallon of Kleen Strip Etch and Prep from Home Depot for $18 and use that in a tub to completely cover the tank inside and out after some dilution. First thing I'd do is remove all the paint on the outside though so the sauce can get to the metal. After that some tape would be needed over the pinholes before sealing. Caswell's sealer is honey thick and will plug the holes. You need to really move that stuff around in the tank to be sure all the surfaces are covered (use a mirror and flashlight to look inside the tank.) This sort of repair is last resort though. As the others have said a new tank would be better.

This is all hindsight but as Nessism said the acid you used was too strong. I’ve had great luck with Apple Cider Viniger took a couple of soaks but cleaned out all the rust and then a warm water flush and quickly dumped in WD40 to stop the flash rust.. That was after I removed the old Kreem with acetone. It had all settled to the bottom of the tank... I will never seal a tank unless its the only option and the tank isn’t replaceable

Phosphoric acid convert rust into a zinc layer!!! Before you use any acids you have to prep/ degrease the tank surface with a strong soapy marine clean (POR15)

Thanks for the responses. Yep the acid was probably not the route to go, but the article is pinned to this site!!! Oh well, I will continue scouring eBay. Live and learn!

jhhall641 wrote: Thanks for the responses. Yep the acid was probably not the route to go, but the article is pinned to this site!!! Oh well, I will continue scouring eBay. Live and learn!

I feel bad for you, but unfortunately those pin holes were being covered up by the rust scale before you even started. You just uncovered them when you removed the oxidation.

** Disclaimer** Like any "repair procedure" use at your own risk. Just because something is posted on our site, does not mean it is right for everyone in every situation. You are ultimately the one that will bear the brunt of any botched repairs.

That said, I have used JB weld to repair pinholes such as that. I would not worry about removing the emblem strap. if you JB weld the pinholes, then use the eastwood 2 part liner to prevent any further leaks. Done deal. This is what the tank liners are meant to repair. >LEAkS<

pinholes:

I've seen others on here say not to use jb weld. Is there a pro/con list?

jhhall641 wrote: I've seen others on here say not to use jb weld. Is there a pro/con list?

Everyone has their own way of doing things. The JB weld is to plug the leaks while you seal it. (others recommended tape) Make sure you install the emblem screws into their threads to prevent blocking them with the epoxy.