1981 KZ1000 Factory Paint Colors

Old kaw said...…..I totally agree with this. I had wondered how many layers KHI used, and this answers in so many ways. This 1975 H1F looks like a brown color to me, yet the link lists it as a "candy yellow" with all of the layered colors. It always looks brown to me. (might be my color blindness)

The transparent candy yellow is the top coat. The base coat is really a dark grey, not black. The mid coat is a micro fine silver flake. Over the flake the Candy yellow looks gold, and over the dark grey base it looks brown. White was the base color for the wide stripes.

PaintWorkz wrote: Old kaw said...…..I totally agree with this. I had wondered how many layers KHI used, and this answers in so many ways. This 1975 H1F looks like a brown color to me, yet the link lists it as a "candy yellow" with all of the layered colors. It always looks brown to me. (might be my color blindness)

The transparent candy yellow is the top coat. The base coat is really a dark grey, not black. The mid coat is a micro fine silver flake. Over the flake the Candy yellow looks gold, and over the dark grey base it looks brown. White was the base color for the wide stripes.

The brown / gold / yellow / brown thing makes more sense using your info. So I imagine the tank was first coated in a gray, then the wide white stripes were then applied over it.. with the yellow mid color over all of it. So depending upon someone's level of color blindness and light angles, it could be designated as yellow, gold or brown.

Actually the factory painted it white first, masked over where the wide stripes would be. Then the gray base and mid coat silver flake, then unmasked it , shot the candy yellow. Last steps were the lettering and thin white stripes and final clear.

PaintWorkz wrote: Actually the factory painted it white first, masked over where the wide stripes would be. Then the gray base and mid coat silver flake, then unmasked it , shot the candy yellow. Last steps were the lettering and thin white stripes and final clear.

Thanks for your insight on the paints. I do appreciate the info, and have done enough painting on my own to know that nice paint is expensive. All of the chemicals and colors add up fast. (why I had my buddy paint it) I fixed his paint booth. He makes, paints and sells custom video game controllers. The bike painting is a side item.
www.controllerchaos.com/build-your-own.html


really nice booth:


What is the procedure / colors to duplicate the 1981 luminous red color? (pictured on rt) I know my painter had no clue, except for the paint chip I gave him.



Frankly any decent base / clear paint was a huge improvement over the dull OD green rattle can finish it had when I got the bike.

Another question on this topic.... I have decided to paint this bike myself, I will not be reverting to factory colors as frankly this bike is not and will not ever be a show bike. I don't have much money in the bike now that its running, but I want to have some fun and make it mine.

I have an idea for the paint job and will be using a proper hvlp gun setup. My question is about paint... I plan on doing primer, then black base, masking, silver, metal flake, masking, then a candy bright green as an ode to the kawasaki dirtbike color. Looks good in my head may look awful when done. anyways for the silver and black layers does anyone have any recommendations on paint types or suppliers? I have my supplier picked for my 2 part clear and interclear to carry the candy and metal flake. But automotive base colors are outrageous and buying a whole quart seems excessive for a tank and 2 side pods when its $100 for a quart or more normally. I fear saying the word rustoleum on here but has anyone tried it as a base coat with a hardener and thinned to be sprayed with an hvlp.

I know his name is all over this thread but I would speak to Ralph at Paintworkz
He is a member here and has been our go to guy for all paint related questions .
He also sells paints for our bikes , and Im sure he can do lots of colors
Dont know about pricing ,but any good paint isnt cheap
Dave

Thanks, I'll see if he replys here if not i may message him directly, I have been looking at Didspade for the flakes and they also deal in tamco paints and clears which seems to be pretty affordable so was planning on going with them. I can't imagine that using an enamel would cause issues in the base layer, but then again dont want to waste time if it does react with a 2 part clear

I've decided on a 2 part urethane primer then a single stage matte urethane paint. Since this is ultimately lipstick on a pig i figure i'll be cheap, if I ever start getting it back to show room condition then maybe i'll attempt a multilayer paint job and be willing to spend the money.

I don't know anything about Didspade or Tamco products, but read all their instructions and you should be OK. I learned not to go over a catalyzed color with a base coat color and mixing some brands on the same job does not always end up good.