How to clean frame, wheels and miscellaneous parts before I paint.

JohnLuke wrote: Or could I just scuff that area with 220 and then clean degrease it?

Thanks!

Sounds like a good plan.

If you get bubbles in the paint that means there was grease or contaminates left on the surface. Bubbles are where the paint isn't/didn't stick to the surface because the cleaner left residue. Tar remover no good. Some wax and grease removers use kerosene...or petroleum distillates in formula. Those will leave residue and create fish-eyes and bubbles. I always wiped my parts down with either thinner/reducer, depending on the paint being used.

So this is what it looks like after sanding it with 120 grit and using Kleen Strip Prep All. It does say it contains petroleum distillates. Hopefully that’s not an issue. But you said that’s what you used so I’ll go for it. Is that correct? I’m just a little worried that the paint transtar epoxy primer won’t want to adhere properly. Let me know what you think. The finish seems smooth to the touch but you can definitely see the 120 grit scratches and feel a dull finish on it compared to the other bracket that I didn’t use the prep all on.

Thanks!

Wouldn't worry too much about the scratches. Primer will stick better with the surface roughed up. You can smooth out any scratches that might show after primered by sanding with about 220 grit paper. I'm not familiar with Prep All. If the label says it's to use before painting it should be. I know some stuff like tar remover that some use has kerosene in it and that will cause problems. I always used thinner/reducer to wipe down parts before painting but that was with PIG products. Be sure if you used any paint stripper to be sure you got it all off. That stuff will ruin a paint job fast...check around all places where brackets are welded to a part, etc. like around welded on mounting nuts on a bracket. I always sanded the part, wiped part down with thinner, then wiped with a tack rag to pick up any dust and then paint. Used a tack rag right before Jeffery coat if paint is allowed to dry between coats.

Oh okay! Well I’m not worried about the scratches showing through the paint I’m worried that the scratches aren’t deep enough for epoxy primer to stick. Like I said I used 120 grit sand paper by hand and scuffed up metal parts and then let them sit in All Prep for a good 15 to 30 minutes.

Thanks!

Does that make sense?

No need to soak the parts unless they are covered in grease. Just follow the instructions on the can and you are good to go. It's best to wipe on the material with one cloth soaked in the cleaner, then wipe off the cleaner with a different clean cloth. I use paper towels.

And again, will 120 grit be enough tooth for the epoxy to stick? I did see that the transtar epoxy primer says between 80-150 grit. All prep says wait 1 minuets then wipe off. Will that give the parts enough time to be etched?

Thanks

The degreaser is not an etching product. You need something like Kleenstrip Etch and Prep for that. Regarding painting those parts, you are fine with 120 for prep.

Oh, Okay! My mistake. I didn’t realize it isn’t etching. But I’m glad you say 120 is good for prep then just the degreaser. I’ll do one final degrease b4 painting.