Remove rust, clean the bike (total newb)

Hey y'all,

This is my first post, after my new member post. I have pictures; and I have done preliminary research through the Googlator.

I just picked up a 1983 440 LTD; there is rust on the frame, and gunk on the engine; as well as paint peeling on the brake fluid box?! How do I clean it all?! I want to make 'er shine again!!

It seems like WD40 and steel wool for the frame?!?

Tooth brush and WD40 for the engine parts?

CocaCola for the chrome?? With a less abrasive material for removing the oxidation build-up?


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Also, side question. Love this bike; love that its a Kawasaki; but I am interested in removing the decals on the sides of gas tank. There are screw holes? Do I need to empty the tank before remove the decals, and a patch the holes?

What do I patch the holes with??

Total newb questions; thanks for taking the time to help a young buck out!

Welcome to the forum.
SOS pads will scratch and dull the paint. I use it for some chrome but with a very light touch. I've heard of people using aluminum foil on chrome but I haven't tried it yet (need to).
First clean the greasy gunk. I like Simple Green because it doesn't attack paint like Purple Power does. Use a tooth brush and warm/hot water if possible. From the pics it looks like the frame could do with a re-spray.
Your brake cylinder needs to be stripped and painted. Chemical stripper for aircraft works best. I usually follow that up with a bead blaster, and then PJ1 paint baked in an oven.
I can't see the label on the tank but mine are held on with screws. You don't need to drain the tank first. I've patched the area with simple bondo but not sure if that is a long term solution. This was on a tank I didn't really care about.
Good luck,
Jim

ThatGPzGuy wrote: Welcome to the forum.
SOS pads will scratch and dull the paint. I use it for some chrome but with a very light touch. I've heard of people using aluminum foil on chrome but I haven't tried it yet (need to).

I've seen folks using cola, are there any other chemicals that help the process? Finish with a chrome polish I suspect.

ThatGPzGuy wrote: First clean the greasy gunk. I like Simple Green because it doesn't attack paint like Purple Power does. Use a tooth brush and warm/hot water if possible. From the pics it looks like the frame could do with a re-spray.

To clean the gunk on the engine block, and mechanical parts; it is reasonable to use Simple Green on these parts? Or only use Simple Green on the frame?!

ThatGPzGuy wrote: Your brake cylinder needs to be stripped and painted. Chemical stripper for aircraft works best. I usually follow that up with a bead blaster, and then PJ1 paint baked in an oven.

I ought state, this is also my primary mode of transportation. How long of a process would this be? More than a weekend?

Thank you for all the insight! I've got the bike in the garage now, tooth brushes and rags at the ready. The guys at the local Napa suggested I use some engine cleaner they gave me. I'd seen a video of a guy using Marvel Mystery, and the internet can be a real hell of conflicting information! haha

I think I'm going to start off with tooth brushes and hot water now that the engine has had time to cool down

Thanks for takin' the time to reply!

Sure chrome polish will work. I use Never Dull for polished aluminum. I wouldn't use Coke for anything...
Use the Simple green wherever you have greasy, oily gunk. It works on steel and aluminum. You can be a little more aggressive on the cast aluminum but take it easy on the polished bits. It scratches easy...
The brake master cylinder can be cleaned, rebuilt and painted in weekend if you have the right tools. It helps to have some master cylinder snap ring pliers.

Oh and for rust you can use Evapo-Rust. Just follow the instructions on the label. I keep some on my bench in a jar I can just drop small items in to like nuts, bolts, washers, etc.

If you're not repainting the whole frame a fine scotchbrite and some WD should remove the surface rust. The frames aren't painted well from the factory so the rust will come back in other spots eventually.

For the engine you can use mag wheel cleaner or "truck and trailer wash" that has muriatic acid. Most aluminum specific cleaners have muriatic acid, just depends how much.

Rusty chrome you can use an oxalic acid bath. You can find it on Ebay pretty cheap. Add about 1/2 cup to a gallon of water in a bucket, let the parts soak and check every so often when the rust is gone.

The lower fork tubes are either clear anodized or clear coated. Degrease and try removing the finish with paint stripper, if that doesn't work they are anodised and need to be stripped in a lye bath. You can find lye at Lowes/Home Depot in the plumbing section "Roebic Crystal Drain Opener". Similar situation as with the oxalic acid bath. Obviously wear gloves with all these procedures.

Carbs you can soak in straight original Pine Sol for 24 hours. Rinse with hot water and blow carb cleaner through the passages to make sure they are clear.

Light polish and wax on the paint. The rest of the bike looks dry and crusty, so just some WD and a gentle touch to remove most of the corrosion. Stay away from coarse materials.

Don't forget to buy new or lube the cables and all the working parts.

Be careful when cleaning & polishing chrome. Steel wool & scotch brite pads etc will scratch chrome. Wash the chrome parts first,
then try polishing with clean cloths & Liquid wrench silicone spray. then try a chrome polish & clean cloths as needed. some chrome polishes are more abrasive than others. Blue magic seems to have the least & it also has silicone. takes more elbow grease, though.

I used crumpled up aluminum foil & water on these rusty pipes
.......Before
.......................After getting rust off with foil & water, I hit it with some Ne ver dull, & finished it with Mothers Chrome polish

Nice work Pete
Dave

OH WOW, lots of great info!!!

OK, plan will be -- scotchbrite with WD40 on the frame; but this fall/winter, repaint the entire frame.

I also need to pick up some Evapo-Rust.

"Crumpled" aluminum with a relatively light touch, with water on the chrome --- I'll try it!

Buy new cables, and "working parts"?

First off, any suggestions on where I ought look to buy new cables, etc? I got a manual, I'm going to start at the beginning of the maintenance section tomorrow. Sidenote, the air-filter modification with the aluminum box --- would that work on a 440?

Moving on -- the front fork tubes are a late summer, early fall, project. Need more tools, rough gig!! :laugh:

That seems to be a good start!!! Thanks y'all, I'll be sure to refer back to this thread as progress proceeds. I took a tooth brush to 'er, but will get some SimpleGreen tomorrow. This whole aluminum foil thing boggles my mind, though aspects do stand to reason, it is a soft metal - while water is life, why wouldn't it help!! Yee-haw, the adventure's begun!!