An attempt to paint my GPZ 750 Tank

Decent materials: paint stripper, paper, primer filler, filler, paint . handglaze, vinyl graphics, clear coat, thinners, gunwash solvent.....all gets expensive even before factoring labour, assuming you have a compressor, water trap and hvlp sprayer mask etc.

Another option is wrapping?

The fun part begin. I went to a local paint shop here and they actually sell Spray Max 2K clear in a can for $46 .

So it will be Duplicolor Acrylic Lacquer base + Spray Max 2K clear coat.

Wet sanded with 320 grit, dried it and then scuff with 400 grit for good adhesion.

The first dusting ...





The closest match is DupliColor Monza Red PSF45. I notice that the red on GPZ750 is a bit lighter than my GPZ900R 'Firecracker Red'

... and after 10 coats or so, waiting 10 minutes in between.

It lays nice and thick and no runoff. Ready for wet sanding to flatten it ...

Surprisingly I only found 3 or 4 spots of imperfection. I'll sand them back a bit more.



My attempt to save $100 for decals by repainting it complicates things a bit. It would have been much easier if I had just removed them.

. It would have been much easier if I had just removed them.

See what I mean about short cuts here?
Go easy on the colour flatting now, this is won't fix a defective primer fiiller stage. I use scotchbite just to key it before clear.

You could try panting graphics on and backtape masking.

Indeed there's too many shortcuts here. But I try to persist.

If you only use scotchbrite, how would it flatten the paint? Or is it not really necessary?

Here for the silver stripe. I used blue stripe mask (Supercheap Auto, $9) and good quality masking tape from local paint shop. It does not stick too much and would not lift paint (which I found out the hard way with cheap tape)



Plaastic cling wrap makes an excellent mask, another invention from the kitchen . It's rainy and cold today so I did it in the cramped garage and with a heater on.

About 5-6 light coats with 10min in between coats.




There are many options for the silver, but Duplicolor DSC65 Satellite Silver seems like a really close match:

I waited for 2 hours then start peeling the pinstripe masking to prepare for the blue strips. Heating it helps with ensuring the paint underneath didn't peel



For the blue I use Duplicolor DSH86 Vespers Blue. It's the darkest blue I could find




About 4-5 coats with 10 minutes in between. The dark blue covers really well.

I waited for 1.5hrs then I peeled the masking tapes, again using heat gun to make it soft and peel easy!

These tapes are really good. They don't stick much at all.






All the hardest part is done I think. I am happy with the color selections.

Now I will let it sit for a week before minor wet sanding/buffing then CLEAR!

Looks great! Can't wait to see it with the clear.

If you only use scotchbrite, how would it flatten the paint? Or is it not really necessary?

If the colour coats go onto well prepped panels - decent primer filler stages beforehand, and no drips or runs from the spayer, then it really isnt neccessary. For a solid non-metallic colour, any slight 'orange peel' spraying defects will be hidden by the clear.

Some would put a clear straight onto the colour basecoat, just after it has flashed off rather than leaving it to fully dry/cure. Actually sticks better that way -depending upon what you are using.

Try to avoid working when it is damp, paint can 'bloom' due to trapped water vapour.

Paint is fun, enjoy it just don't be in too much of a hurry.

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I don't want to make a mistake by sanding too far and burn to the primer...

I might just give it a quick dry sanding

Here is a close up of the paint. The phone did not focus too well but have some general idea:

I wouldn't sand between the color & clear. Also, not sure about this, but since the color & clear are two different types of paint, I'd guess it would be okay if the color has already dried thoroughly before spraying the clear. ??? again, not sure, so maybe Tyrell Corp or someone will chime in.

No amount of colour sanding will fix that. Your flatting was no-where near good enough, look at the tank badge filling where it catches the light in the top pic- then you put colour straight on without even primer coats. You may even get a bad paint reaction weeks or months later . If it looks rough now then clear will magnify any flatness / roughness issues whilst hiding some minor imperfections.

~But you'll be amazed what you did and will understand the process better and the next job will be better. Take this as help not a kicking.

You don't need 2k Old school cellulose paint gives a nice finish and works at lower temperatures. There is no clear so the colour finish before compounding needs to be perfect.