1981 KZ1000J1 FRAME COLOR FINSH - HAPPY NEW YEARS

Hello fellow riders, I have my 1981 KZ1000J1 stripped and am wondering what finish the frame was originally. I was looking at the shocks which are in great shape and it looks like a Black Satin finish. The model # is JKAKZCJ1-CA010047 If that helps. Any information about this model would be appreciated. I am rebuilding it for my Friend who passed and am giving it to his son after completion. I don't have any idea how many were produced either. The engine is done and the frame is ready for paint. I just want to get it right. Thanks for any help. Happy and blessed New Years to all especially our veterans and those still serving. jon

Gloss black.
Steve

Any modern 2k gloss black will be far glossier than anything coming out of Japan in the 70's, but is 'correct'.

Very high gloss can make any defects more obvious, I'm going satin black next time











edit seems impossible to capture subtleties of paint in pictures, matt black frame before and after clear coat. Usually I can't wait to clear coat, this time around I preferred the less glossy look.

Thank you both for the fast replies. I guess I will go with the satin. The frame was professionally blasted down to the bare metal so it is pretty clean with no real defects. Both of your bikes look fantastic. Tyrell, did you use spray cans to do your tank and other body parts
? They look great. thanks again and have a Happy New Year. Jon

I'd go for gloss. Powder coat never shines as much as liquid paint anyway.

Thanks, It Is all automotive basecoat and 2k clear done with a HVLP mini sprayer, the red body parts looks dull as it is basecoat that has been scuffed and degreased waiting for the 2k clearcoat.

Usually I'd like to shoot a clear straight over the red ,but graphics placement takes time to get 'just' right.

I do use rattle cans for heat resistant coatings - but also in satin black and baked on in my kitchen oven.

Maybe research the pros and cons on paint vs powder coat/stove enamel. If you go with paint I'd recomend 'london taxi black' it has a shot of Violet in it -it really 'pops' in the sunlight. Ask the painter for the paint remainder; black is the hardest colour to match for paint-ins on stonechips etc.

The 'problem' being that "dipped in glass" stunning look of modern 2k clear is too fine for rough welds and chassis parts without stupid amounts of prep.

Fortunately I am that stupid, the GPz550 frame after 'light' dressing of the rough factory welds and plastic filler.

Thanks again for everyone's input. I am working on a "budget" rebuild and since being retired can't afford powder coating and have never used a real spray gun. I am going "rattle can". I have 2 coats of primer and am on my second coat of the gloss black on the frame. Thank goodness I live in the south as the weather has been nice enough to work in a t-shirt so far. I'm going to rough up the gloss before the final coat of Satin. Not sure if I should clear coat after or not. I did the engine in high heat primer and gloss Black. So far so good. Unfortunately I do not have the capability to Bake the paint. I have been talking to Shadowdragon about this but I think he is dealing with old man winter and has put the bike project on hold until spring. Please keep the information coming and know that it is very much appreciated. Be well, jon

The guys on the old Kawasaki two stroke forum always swore by the Krylon Tough Coat black paint. Unfortunately I have not been able to find it in single cans, just by the case. The consensus was it had the perfect amount of gloss compared to other semi glosses.

I find Tremclad semi gloss black rust paint ( available at Home Depot) a very close match to the original black paint that is on the frame, I have used it to do touch ups on a spare frame I have and got good results.

Happy New Year MopGuy, I Hope your doing OK....Best Regards Karl

aquaholic wrote: Thanks again for everyone's input. I am working on a "budget" rebuild and since being retired can't afford powder coating and have never used a real spray gun. I am going "rattle can". I have 2 coats of primer and am on my second coat of the gloss black on the frame. Thank goodness I live in the south as the weather has been nice enough to work in a t-shirt so far. I'm going to rough up the gloss before the final coat of Satin. Not sure if I should clear coat after or not. I did the engine in high heat primer and gloss Black. So far so good. Unfortunately I do not have the capability to Bake the paint. I have been talking to Shadowdragon about this but I think he is dealing with old man winter and has put the bike project on hold until spring. Please keep the information coming and know that it is very much appreciated. Be well, jon

For the frame I don't think you can beat PJ1 in either semi gloss or gloss black. The paint is also epoxy based and tough as crap. Once it cures it really is hard. It's also a bastard to get off as well. I painted a number of old dirt bike's with it, (kdx200), in team green and it holds up great, better than the factory paint. I was going to powder coat my 550 frame, but after testing the gloss on the swing arm, decided to paint the frame instead (with the PJ1 gloss epoxy)....cheaper and I think looks better....and easier to touch up scratches.

Now for color on the body work, tank, side panels, tail, I have had good luck with Colorite single stage vinyl. I use their single part clear on the body but not the tank. I have been using Eastmans two part aerosol with great results. Cures hard and buffs out nice. I did have to practice and experiment to get it right. You must follow their directions to get the best results. Also I found three coats minimum on the clear or you burn through on buffing.