House of Kolor Black? BC25 vs. S2-25

My paint came in yesterday and now I’m wondering if I got the right black basecoat. I got “BC25 universal Base, Black”, now I see there is “S2-25 Jet black solid basecoat”. I want to end up with a high gloss black. I’m using KD3001 black primer, BC-25 Basecoat, and USC01 show clear. Wonder if I should be using the S2-25? I can’t find a comparison anywhere.

Also, does anyone know of a good motorcycle paint forum? HOK doesn’t seem to have a forum that I can find.

I think you are fine with the BC-25 black. The S2-25 Jet Black is just HOK's newer low VOC formula base coat.

All base coat products spray out flat sheen. It's the clear that you put on top that provides the gloss.

The USC01 clear sprays a little thin. Use medium coats, don't hose it on or you will get runs.

Thanks.
I got a detail gun in a two gun kit that has a 1.0mm tip. I wonder if I would be better off using it for the clear? (Instead of the bigger gun with a 1.4mm)
I don’t have any damage to fill or bondo to blend. Should I mix that primer as a sealer or as a medium fill surfacer? I assume if I mix it as a surfacer I’ll use the 1.8mm tip and 1.4 if I mix it as a sealer?

DK900 wrote: ......Also, does anyone know of a good motorcycle paint forum? HOK doesn’t seem to have a forum that I can find.

Not actually a forum, but you can contact the folks at the link below. What they don't know about motorcycle paint ain't worth knowing. Ed

paintworkz.com/

DK900 wrote: Thanks.
I got a detail gun in a two gun kit that has a 1.0mm tip. I wonder if I would be better off using it for the clear? (Instead of the bigger gun with a 1.4mm)
I don’t have any damage to fill or bondo to blend. Should I mix that primer as a sealer or as a medium fill surfacer? I assume if I mix it as a surfacer I’ll use the 1.8mm tip and 1.4 if I mix it as a sealer?

I use a 1.0 tip on everything. A motorcycle is small so just take your time and don't get in a hurry and it will turn out fine. The only real hang up is if the paint is really thick. In that case I add reducer to the max allowed by the datasheet for that particular material.

Typically you should strip the old paint down to the bare metal and then do your bondo work. After that it's a couple layers of epoxy primer. This stuff is not a filler, it's a sealer. You can lay down a couple extra coats of epoxy on top of your bondo to give you just a little extra thickness for filling but if you need a filler, you should move to a different material. If you are shooting a real primer/surfacer that's thick stuff and that fatter tip gun will come in handy then.

I don’t have any damage or bondo to deal with. The tank glass beaded really smooth, the plastics parts are a little rough in some areas from the blasting. I hit the big areas with 100 grit and they smoothed right out. I haven’t done all the corners and fillet radii on the form; but I could. I thought the primer might smooth those areas out.

The HOK DTS3001 primer is a direct to substrate that can be used as a high or medium build primer or a surfacer; depending on how it’s mixed. As a medium build primer its mixed 4:1:1: (primer/activator/reducer) as a surfacer its mixed 4:1:2. My only concern in using it as a surfacer is if it would cover the rough finish on the plastic parts, but I guess I could spend the time to get into all those areas.

On the gun set up it says:
“GUN SET UP
HVLP Gun
Used as a High Build/Medium Build Surfacer/Sealer = 1.7 to 1.8 tips
Used as a High Build/Medium Build Surfacer = 1.7 to 1.8 tips
Used as a Sealer = 1.3 to 1.5 Needle/Nozzle (Depending on the size of object being painted)
Used as a High Build/Medium Build Surfacer = 100% Trigger Pull
Used as a Sealer = 50% to 75% Trigger Pull
Not Recommended for Air Brush Application”

So I guess using the detail gun for the primer is out; I only have a 1.0 nozzle for it. But I’m thinking it might be the best option for the clear?

I think you got the mix ratio backwards; more reducer makes the material thinner and the build is lower.

Play around with spraying. Those tip sizes are just recommendations. Again, I spray just about everything with a 1.0 tip. Only thing I don't is really thick primer/surfacers.

I'd smooth out the plastic with some 220 grit paper and then shoot the primer. Mix 4:1:2 and lay down three medium layers. Let dry and then smooth out the surface with a gray scotchbrite pad. If you cut through anywhere go back and shoot some more primer.

Look at the data sheet to learn the "open" time for your paint products. Typically, there is a set maximum time from when you spray the material until when you need to move to the next step. Wait too long and the material cures too much and the next layer won't bite in the way it should. Painting becomes a bit of a mad rush to spray all the layers in the allotted time frame so good luck with that.