preventing frame rust while stripping paint

I have the frame in my basement and Im using aircraft stripper to remove the paint I'm noticing very light light rust type spotting on the metal? Also how quick could the frame start rusting without paint on it? Should I do this quickly?

I wouldnt worry about it. Youll need to wash the frame anyway to get rid of all the paint stripper and whatever else. Thatll produce more (flash?) rust but itll come off easy enough when youre preparing for paint.
Though maybe you need to think about paiting somewhere else. If youre inside and getting rust while stripping,it must be damp. Not the best place to paint

davido wrote: I wouldnt worry about it. Youll need to wash the frame anyway to get rid of all the paint stripper and whatever else. Thatll produce more (flash?) rust but itll come off easy enough when youre preparing for paint.
Though maybe you need to think about paiting somewhere else. If youre inside and getting rust while stripping,it must be damp. Not the best place to paint

Well I moved it to the garage again. Its cold but probably not as much humidity. Since its cold now and we're running the humidifier now inside. I'm thinking of getting a dremel with a brush head to get the paint off quicker the frame paint is really difficult to get off

I applaud your desire to do the work yourself but properly stripping a frame for repainting requires some media blasting. If you aren't set up for this sort of work it may be easier to just pay someone to do it for you.

When doing my frame I started with paint stripper, followed by a mineral spirits wash to remove the stripper. The stripper removes the paint for the most part but there is remnants in all the nooks and crannies like underneath the head stock.

Next I used phosphate solution to remove most of the surface rust. You have to keep the frame wet for some time to allow the sauce to work, followed by a water rinse.

I then use a wire wheel on my buffer motor to remove remaining paint and rust. This worked well but again, you can't get into all the corners.

Last thing I did was media blast using coal slag. This media doesn't give off harmful dust, unlike sand which releases silica dust. The main thing with blasting at this point is to get all those deep crevices that I couldn't reach previously, and give the metal some roughness so the paint will stick.

This whole process is a LOT of work. I don't recommend it unless 1) you are a masochist, and 2) have the equipment.

Paying someone to blast and powder coat is a bargin in the end compared to what it takes to do the job right by yourself.

No its not easy and not fun. The best bet is to take it somewhere and get it blasted but if youre doing it yourself,paint stripper is pretty much your only choice.
I did mine last summer with paint stripper. I couldnt get everything off in one go so I went over it a couple of times. I got most of it off but using stripper and a scrapper you get strips or lines of old undercoat left behind.I went over everything with a wire brush and a sander afterwards. There were some bits I just couldnt get to with anything but they were pretty much out of sight anyway (up inside where the frame rails meet the back of the headstock for example). Theres only so far you can go.Just do the best you can.
Most important thing that I can tell you is that when you are finished,take it to the car wash and blast the shit out of it with a power washer. You want to get every last hint of paint stripper off it before you even think of putting new paint on. Also if you have thin/weak areas in the tubing the power washer can open up holes,which sounds bad but is good if you think about it.
Good luck with it.

Yeah I'm gonna call a paint shop. The paint is stubborn

Ive always used a carwash when using paint stripper on bike frames.
Then drag it home and blow it off really good and start hitting every inch of the frame with sand paper to rough it up,wipe it all down with thinner and prime it.

I used wire wheels and wire brushes to take off all the loose paint .
Then I used a small(paint) brush and painted rustoleum on all the welds
Then I sprayed it with VHT roll bar and chassis paint as per OMR's sugestion
and let it cure for a week before rebuilding, The VHT has a slow cure rate but is very durable.
4 years and around 35,000 miles later and still holding up well

www.vhtpaint.com/products/rollbarchassis/

Blasted my sons frame with Black Diamond, much easier :laugh:

bluej58 wrote: I used wire wheels and wire brushes to take off all the loose paint .
Then I used a small(paint) brush and painted rustoleum on all the welds
Then I sprayed it with VHT roll bar and chassis paint as per OMR's sugestion
and let it cure for a week before rebuilding, The VHT has a slow cure rate but is very durable.
4 years and around 35,000 miles later and still holding up well

www.vhtpaint.com/products/rollbarchassis/

Blasted my sons frame with Black Diamond, much easier :laugh:

VHT also makes an Epoxy Paint, that is salt & rust resistant, that I used on my pitted & corroded wheels, It's also self priming, so no primer needed
I used a flap wheel in a 1/2 inch drill to get them as smooth as possible, then cleaned with Simple Green then brake cleaner before painting
before


after


Pete

Amazing!!!! Ed

You can have it blasted with media. About $50 were I deal with. That is stripped mostly, just the fine area's.
But after, if you can get some "phosphoric acid powder". This will seal out rust for about 1 - 2 weeks. Mixed with water in a spray bottle.
I ordered it at work in a 55 gallon drum for the Boiler room. The Stationary engineer used it in the boilers for the heat system.
I am sure it is hard to get but, do you know anyone that works in a big factory or a multi unit building? Get you a small amount.
Mix with water and use a spray bottle. At least, this is what I do.

I took my frame and parts to a powder coating place it should be done next week. It will save me loads of time