Clear coat over original factory paint job.

I'd like to have the original factory paint top-coated with a durable, super-smooth, clear-coat.
The original is nice, but has fine scratches and ripply orange peel. I assume it will need a tedious thorough wet-sanding, prior to coating. I want the surface like glass!

Any suggestions regarding what finish to use, and if a good auto body shop can achieve the quality level I'm after?

It sounds like a nice idea; just be careful sanding. Many of the KZ's were clear coated from the factory. Some parts (like the tank on mine) have the clear coat applied on top of the pinstripe decals leaving the decals very smooth under the clear coat. On some other parts, like the side covers and ducktail, the decals are raised rather than being smooth. It would probably be pretty easy to damage these decals if the sanding was a little too aggressive. Ed

There are those who restore/collect older Kawasakis who want the 'orange-peel' as it is a sign of the original factory paint.

I would just rough up the paint with a fine scoch-brite and Comet to get it goog and clean then clear it. Put enough clear on to be able to wet sand smooth and polish it up. Like Ed said an aggreseve sanding will danage the paint and well not look good.
Mark

daveo wrote: I'd like to have the original factory paint top-coated with a durable, super-smooth, clear-coat.
The original is nice, but has fine scratches and ripply orange peel. I assume it will need a tedious thorough wet-sanding, prior to coating. I want the surface like glass!

Any suggestions regarding what finish to use, and if a good auto body shop can achieve the quality level I'm after?

If you're having a shop do it they will know what to do. If you want to do it yourself, lightly wet sand the tank with 1000 grit paper and spray it yourself with the Spray Max 2k aerosol clear. You can order it online for $18. Follow the instructions. I would do 3 coats, then wet sand with 1500, then 2000 to remove any peel. Do a final polish with Meguires polish, then wax. Your level of shininess will be determined by your 2000 sanding. Use a pad, you will see how much peel there is.

Mark Wing wrote: I would just rough up the paint with a fine scoch-brite and Comet to get it goog and clean then clear it. Put enough clear on to be able to wet sand smooth and polish it up. Like Ed said an aggreseve sanding will danage the paint and well not look good.
Mark

+1 I use a grey scotch brite (may be better choices) shoot a coat of clear then do my airbrush work
reclear and color sand depending on the art work may have to recoat

Factory paint is already clearcoated, just for info. At least on all mine it is.

The original clear coat is OK, but I think the factory was more interested in quantity vs. quality.

daveo wrote: The original clear coat is OK, but I think the factory was more interested in quantity vs. quality.

Thats why I always scuff clear then art serves 2 purposes gives me known substrate and removal without getting down to original finish if someone wants to change it back