KZR's Bikes of the Month for 2024

how to make my motor look like that KZR bike at the top

  • Pterosaur
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10 Jan 2007 10:30 #104710 by Pterosaur
Robjb84 wrote:

Well in that case do I somehow need to get the engine out of the frame :o and I assume I can pull apart the particular fin section?


In straict sense, yes. The reason is that the motor you're looking at - a '73 Z1 had blacked inner cases as well as blacked head n' jugs.

Ususally, that's done in concert with a motor rebuild, because if you're gonna go to all that trouble, might as well freshen up the mill while you're at it.

There's a thread making the rounds about using chemical strippers on aluminum, and while possible to do, it's problematic, messy and time consuming. Glass bead blasting is the *ne' plus ultra* of metal prep for aluminum painting, bar none.

It can be done with the motor together out of the frame, but requires extensive prep to set up.

For a head/jug only application, yes, it's still desireable to pull the head and jugs, do the blasting/painting and re-install. Generally, that's also a good excuse for at least a hone/re-ring/valve job while everything's apart. Might as well get the most out of your effort.

I guess my worst fear is attempting something like that and unknowingly ruining something :P


That's an age-old concern. And a valid one.

Which leads to considering options: kicking off a process like that to a mechanically sound motor for mere cosmetic reasons may in fact not be the best course of action. Might be better to hold on to that idea until the motor needs obvious internal maintenence and then go ape on it.

The issues here are form and function; they're inter-related concepts, especially when contemplating making changes to an established unit like a running motor - making changes to one aspect invariably affects the other, and they're both done best when approached as a relational goal. ;)

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10 Jan 2007 10:41 #104712 by Robjb84
Yeah, I can see where you are coming from with form and function :) I guess I may just have to do some less ambitious things to make my bike look nicer..

Basically I am in love with Wharfrats KZ400



I would like to get my 440 looking a little like that as far as the shiny factor and painted fins go :)

Currently, my bike looks like this:



Todd if you read this bro, I still have your little rear bag thing. Been out of the loop for a loooong time.

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  • Pterosaur
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10 Jan 2007 10:47 #104715 by Pterosaur
ltdrider wrote:

I came across a polishing product called Mr. Buffer. I found it on a Voyager site, and they all swear by it. These Voyager people are SERIOUS engine polishers, and they claim great results with Mr. Buffer.
I couldn't find it in my area, so I ordered a bottle ($12.99 plus shipping) from their web page.
I'm told that if you start with a smooth aluminum surface, that it'll take it to a mirror finish faster than anything....


Sounds like great stuff, *but...*

First off, the question here was paint prep. Polishing, per-se, is *not* paint prep. Especially for high-temp applications.

And here's why:

And it leaves some kind of protective coating so it stays shiny.


Aluminum is a soft *porous* metal. Hi-temp paints are traditionally applied direct to metal without primers, for the specific reason that they are formulated to attach to and grip the pores of the metal. *Anything* - primers, polish residues, chemical stripper traces, you name it - that remains on the metal prior to application of a high-temp coating interferes with that bond.

It's that simple.

Anyone ever try this stuff?


Not directly, but give me a hunk of *smooth* aluminum, a bobble of glass cleaner and a hunk of #1500 sandpaper, and I'll match - or better - their shine in a like amount of time. Guaranteed. That's because freshly polished raw metal will *always* outshine a treated surface - that's just the physics of light refraction.

Polish additives - waxes and polymers - are a fairly well known science - it ain't alchemy.

That's not to denigrate their product - I'm sure it's great stuff - but in this application, it'd tend to add to the problems of paint adhesion rather than solve them... :)

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  • tganek
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10 Jan 2007 11:07 #104720 by tganek
Robjb84 wrote:

Todd if you read this bro, I still have your little rear bag thing. Been out of the loop for a loooong time.



Hey! The Limey Kid is back. Was wondering if you were still alive...


Now, rest assured fair members that by "I still have your little rear bag thing" Rob is actually saying:

T,
I still have the Chase Harper Barrel bag on the back of my bike.

And not to derail the thread, I know for a fact WharfRat painted his engine with one cotton swab and Testors gloss black. While the engine was in the frame.

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  • Pterosaur
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10 Jan 2007 11:21 #104723 by Pterosaur
tganek wrote:

And not to derail the thread, I know for a fact WharfRat painted his engine with one cotton swab and Testors gloss black. While the engine was in the frame.


Sure - it *can* be done - and it can even be done *semi-right* in that context. And going by the one pic, WR did a fine job, short of microscopic detail - and I'd like to hear how many hours he had in prep and application work to get those results.

The short of it is that with enough ingenuity and time, you can do remarkable things - but more often than not, *meticulously* applied "shortcuts" wind up taking as much time - or more - than just doing the job right from the get-go.

Making a bike look trick from 5 yards away is no trick at all. Making one look trick from 5 feet is a little tougher. Making one look trick from 5 inches is a *real trick*. ;)~

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10 Jan 2007 11:21 #104724 by Robjb84
tganek wrote:

Robjb84 wrote:

Todd if you read this bro, I still have your little rear bag thing. Been out of the loop for a loooong time.


And not to derail the thread, I know for a fact WharfRat painted his engine with one cotton swab and Testors gloss black. While the engine was in the frame.


Sounds flammable :D

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10 Jan 2007 11:26 #104726 by Nevco48
tganek wrote:

Now, rest assured fair members that by "I still have your little rear bag thing" Rob is actually saying:

T,
I still have the Chase Harper Barrel bag on the back of my bike.


Sure, we believe you.:laugh:



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  • ambergrismooon
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10 Jan 2007 11:44 #104735 by ambergrismooon
Replied by ambergrismooon on topic how to make my motor look like that KZR bike at the top
Just like the shirt says "If you can read this the little rear bag thing fell off"! Wait a minute!!!! You're riding a rear bagger!!!!!!:S


The other stuff must be like Never-Dull. It's pretty good and does leave a protectant but still requires dutiful work just like anything else!

Post edited by: ambergrismooon, at: 2007/01/10 14:46

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10 Jan 2007 12:00 #104743 by Wirewulf
Pterosaur wrote:

give me a hunk of *smooth* aluminum, a bobble of glass cleaner and a hunk of #1500 sandpaper, and I'll match - or better - their shine in a like amount of time. Guaranteed.


Hence all the metal polish I've ever bought reaks of ammonia.. I wondered if Glass Plus would work just as well. Thx PT

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  • Pterosaur
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10 Jan 2007 12:10 #104744 by Pterosaur
Wirewulf wrote:

Pterosaur wrote:

give me a hunk of *smooth* aluminum, a bobble of glass cleaner and a hunk of #1500 sandpaper, and I'll match - or better - their shine in a like amount of time. Guaranteed.


Hence all the metal polish I've ever bought reaks of ammonia.. I wondered if Glass Plus would work just as well. Thx PT


Pretty much - the ammonia in the glass cleaner breaks down the film of aluminum oxide that forms on the surface of the metal.

Polishes as fine-grit abrasives, waxes, polymers - to fill the surface imperfections and up the refractive index of the surface ("no-polish" polishes... ;) ) and usually, a hint of "fragrence" so your sig-other doesn't immediately boot you back into the garage...

You're udderly welcome... :P
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11 Jan 2007 04:12 #104892 by WharfRat
:laugh: :laugh: Testors and a Q-tip!
Here's how I did it Rob.
PT-it took about a weekend. Here's what I did. Pulled pipes,carbs,tank,side covers,and anything else that was in the way. Cleaned the hell out of the engine. Polished up the covers with some drill mounted buffs. Masked up the frame,engine covers-pretty time consuming.
Then masked off the jugs and hit the lower end with Dupli-color 500 deg. alum. Pulled off mask on jugs after about a half hour. Let dry overnight with 2 of those portable halogen shop lights on it(they toss crazy heat). Masked off lower end,and hit the jugs with 1200 deg. black,and put in under the lights overnight. Pulled all the masking and that's it.:laugh: :laugh:
Went to knock the paint off the edges,but the fins are pretty thin on a 400,and didn't like the look,so just shot a little paint over them. Looks pretty good,and has held up well for 2 years. There is a good pic in the gallery. hope this helps.

Kenosha,WI
1979 KZ 400B2
1980 KZ 750 E1
1979 KZ 650 B3

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11 Jan 2007 05:48 #104893 by Robjb84
Sweet, this is exactly what I wanted/needed to know man!

PS. What are the 'jugs'? :o

(awaits 'jugs' picture from tganek) :P

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