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Filling gouges in abs plastic

  • supa phatty J
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14 Mar 2006 20:46 #31219 by supa phatty J
Filling gouges in abs plastic was created by supa phatty J
I got started on the one tail piece that got the low-side rash and the gouges are deeper than I initially thought, maybe 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch deep.

How should I fix this before spraying any primer and paint?

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  • wireman
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14 Mar 2006 21:50 #31242 by wireman
Replied by wireman on topic Filling gouges in abs plastic
spot putty?i would think it would stick as long as you rough up plastic.;) goodluck,happy wrenching!

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  • ran429
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14 Mar 2006 22:45 #31259 by ran429
Replied by ran429 on topic Filling gouges in abs plastic
JB WELD em!

I did it before and it worked killer, its a bit hard to sand but its durable.

If its a kz750E let me know, or if its a duck tail let me know too.

Please edit your profile and signature to contain your state & town complete with year and model of bike. this way someone close you you may be at hand to help you in person some time or private message you to go on rides around your area.

Post edited by: ran429, at: 2006/03/15 01:47

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15 Mar 2006 01:50 #31269 by Mcdroid
Replied by Mcdroid on topic Filling gouges in abs plastic
Just like ran429 said...JB Weld. I patch all my plastics with the stuff. It sands well and is pretty strong when set.

Michael
Victoria, Texas

1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A

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15 Mar 2006 03:23 #31279 by indykaw77
Replied by indykaw77 on topic Filling gouges in abs plastic
I never thought of JB Weld...good idea. Anyways.....The 650 tail piece I put on my kz1000 was sorta rashed in a spot or two, and I used short-strand fiberglass filler (Tiger Hair, Bondo Hair...that kinda stuff). Easy to use and easy to sand and finish. So far so good. Let us know how it works out.

Kawasaki Motorcycles...because cars lean th wrong way!

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  • KZQ
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15 Mar 2006 05:55 #31294 by KZQ
Replied by KZQ on topic Working with JB Weld.
One way to minimize sanding of JB Weld is to use a damp rag to smooth away the epoxy as it's setting. I'm crude I just use my wet finger. Using water and a little rubbing it's possible to avoid almost all the sanding. Once it sets up the JB Weld doesn't seem to have minded the water.
KZCSI

Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2006/03/15 09:05

www.KZ1300.com
Riders:
1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100
Projects:
1985 ZN1300

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  • supa phatty J
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15 Mar 2006 09:28 #31338 by supa phatty J
Replied by supa phatty J on topic Working with JB Weld.
Good to know guys; thanks! This is for my SV650, btw. And I updated my sig. Looks like the entire board was reset at some point during my absence.

Also, where is the best (cheapest) place to buy this JB weld stuff? Autozone is closest to me, then after that, probably Lowes or Walmart.

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  • ran429
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15 Mar 2006 10:42 #31356 by ran429
Replied by ran429 on topic Working with JB Weld.
Try wally world first.
it can be purchased cheaper at any hardware, lowes wally world, the Depot. You name it it's there.

They do have alot of tempting fillers out there, stay away from the stick crap. I used quick setting jbweld I had in my boat in case a punctures the bottom on rocks, it set up in 15 minutes and sandable, but it still took 24 hours to cure.

Good luck.


EDIT! : Oh yeah ! SARAN WRAP IS YOUR FRIEND in times like this.
after applying the jbweld where you need it, cover the area where you "DONT" want it with the saran wrap. this way it keeps your sanding time down to a minimum on the outer areas.

Post edited by: ran429, at: 2006/03/15 13:44

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15 Mar 2006 14:58 #31415 by Fossil
Replied by Fossil on topic Working with JB Weld.
Just a note re epoxy. Some people can have an immediate allergic reaction to it, some others can develop a sensitivety to it. Then again, there's most of the population that it won't bother at all.
I used epoxy resins and putty every day for years in paleo work and developed an allergic reaction to it, ended up in the hospital twice and had to quit the paleo work which I loved. Don't handle it with your bare hands, and don't breathe the fumes (it out gases for days). Most common is a dermotological reaction (skin rash, I wanted to die), also can cause respiratory problems.
Be careful.

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15 Mar 2006 16:19 #31434 by mykznme
Replied by mykznme on topic Working with JB Weld.
i would sand down to plastic around the area and fill with testors model putty. its made for abs, easier to work with,easier to sand and cheaper.


R.I.P. Odd Ivar

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18 Mar 2006 20:26 #32395 by dan76kz900
Replied by dan76kz900 on topic Working with JB Weld.
If you havent fixed your peice yet.. my opinion would be to use some quality polyester body filler. You will want to prep your gouges for the filler, sand the gouges out with 80 grit and cut the gouge wider so the filler will be able to be feathered out - meaning smooth and even to the rest of the surface. You dont have to remove paint to use polyester filler just strach it up, do sand cracked paint off and the paint in the gouges.

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