Powdercoat prep

I am sending my frame for powdercoating on Monday. Is there anything I need to say or do, pitfalls to watch out for?

if you have any deep scratches or other imperfections in your frame that bother you now is the time to weld them up and file them down that powder coating will magnify them,you cant use any lead or bondo the heat will melt/burn it when the powder coat is baked on!good luck,happy wrenching

What wireguy said. When I had it done, they were pretty good about plugging up frame fitting holes and such, protecting surfaces as necessary.

BUT, one thing I did learn -- you need to let them know to be careful with your VIN number on the steering head or it can become concealed (numbers filled in). First thing is to be careful there when sand/bead blasting so it doesn't erode the numbers away.

After that, I'm not sure the right approach here -- have seen people cover it entirely, then use touch up paint. My place, despite my instructions, just coated that mother. The coating flowed into the numbers so they're not very deep, quite difficult to read. Had one small incident at the emissions testing place during VIN verification. Pretty good flashlight was required (and a little coaching and convincing from me). If they layed it on thick, it'd be a real pain to try and clean out, that's for sure...

Ooh, a new project. Whatcha up to anyways? I gather you're going with FireBurst Red or some such?:ohmy:

Thanks guys. This is my first project so first of many questions. It is a 400 LTD low miles but sat outside all its life. Runs really good just in need of a cosmetic overhaul. I really can't decide on a color.

A couple more items come to mind for preparation.

Ensure there is no chain grease trapped in the frame around the swingarm pivot section. This comes out when frame is heated.

Keeps hands away from frame once it has been bead/ sand-blasted. Skin always has traces of grease.

Screw some old 6mm bolts in all 6 mm threaded holes and old acorn-nuts on all threads.

After the job ~ One of the hardest places to remove powder-coating, is the centre-stand screw-holes (I think it usually takes a spark-plug tap on most KZ's) Also, don't forget to run a tap thru the 8mm horn bracket thread, before engine goes back in! The horn is usually the last thing to go back on and it's hard to tap when the engine is in.

Regardz.

Just came back from the bodyshop and I think black frame and metallic red tank and side covers.