Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap

So i swapped my KZ750H bars for some lower rise cafe type bars. Got a new shorter brake line and fittings. The issue now is the brake like and banjo fitting doesn’t fit with new bars and stock master cylinder. I have no clearance because the air valve on the right fork tube is in the way. How can I address this? Thanks for reading.

A picture would be helpful to suggest a solution

You might have to go shopping...again. Getting too low/narrow and cafe aggressive bars will always put you in a spot. Even without photos i can almost visualize your scenario. Your master cylinder's banjo bolt runs parallel to the bars or out the end of master. When i get in a pickle i'll use a master that banjo comes out the side, as in photos. Photos are of an XS1100 Special 1979 also with those air caps. I make my own brake lines because i'm changing all the dynamics of the original design and nonsense to think something off the shelf would suffice. I have mine crimped once indexed and proper routing length/obstacles sorted. Because i desire the "original" look, that's how i do it. But Many more options for making your own that you can assemble yourself.          

asphalt900 post=906903 userid=19828You might have to go shopping...again. Getting too low/narrow and cafe aggressive bars will always put you in a spot. Even without photos i can almost visualize your scenario. Your master cylinder's banjo bolt runs parallel to the bars or out the end of master. When i get in a pickle i'll use a master that banjo comes out the side, as in photos. Photos are of an XS1100 Special 1979 also with those air caps. I make my own brake lines because i'm changing all the dynamics of the original design and nonsense to think something off the shelf would suffice. I have mine crimped once indexed and proper routing length/obstacles sorted. Because i desire the "original" look, that's how i do it. But Many more options for making your own that you can assemble yourself. 

 

      

Guess I'll do some shopping. Anyone have a specific part number I should be shopping for or will any 7/8" master cylinder with bajo bolt out the front work?
 

Wookie58 wrote:

A picture would be helpful to suggest a solution

Looking at your picture Clay (asphalt900) is "on the money" with a cylinder swop

1980 KZ750 E1 with shorter non stock bars. Brake lines changed 2 years back. Tach currently off for winter refurb.  
The front was a tight fit. I had to rotate the bars a smidgen forward. Also took a file to the MC at about 7 o clock to the banjo bolt so I could rotate the banjo enough forward to allow the brake line to run between the headlight and the right side headlight ear.
Banjo has a 15 degree (i think) bend.


 

I make my own brake lines from Earl's parts.  My rebuild thread shows how to build them.  It's easy, and cheaper than purchasing premade lines, in most cases.  Pick whatever hose ends you need for clearance.

Regarding the air valve, air forks suck, so ditch the soft springs in favor of some from Sonic, or similar, and you won't ever have to monkey around with air again.

And for a master, consider modernizing.  The Kawasaki EX650 rectangular master is what I used.  It's 5/8" bore, which is same as OEM, and has the outlet port in a convenient place for clearance.  You can find clean examples off ebay for cheap.

P1010705 by nessism , on Flickr

goodridge and galfer are a couple of other options.  not sure if z1enterprises has goodridge any more. cyclebrakes/abbyshwartz has custom galfer lines.  homemade custom or goodridge are more forgiving if you measure wrong. home custom, just recut a line. goodridge, reorder a more suitable length. but. galfer, measure very carefully the first time.

Nessism wrote:

I make my own brake lines from Earl's parts.  My rebuild thread shows how to build them.  It's easy, and cheaper than purchasing premade lines, in most cases.  Pick whatever hose ends you need for clearance.

Regarding the air valve, air forks suck, so ditch the soft springs in favor of some from Sonic, or similar, and you won't ever have to monkey around with air again.

And for a master, consider modernizing.  The Kawasaki EX650 rectangular master is what I used.  It's 5/8" bore, which is same as OEM, and has the outlet port in a convenient place for clearance.  You can find clean examples off ebay for cheap.

P1010705 by nessism , on Flickr

Ness, what year for the EX650 MC or does it not really matter as long as it has the banjo bolt exiting the front?

SnyperX wrote:

Nessism wrote:

I make my own brake lines from Earl's parts.  My rebuild thread shows how to build them.  It's easy, and cheaper than purchasing premade lines, in most cases.  Pick whatever hose ends you need for clearance.

Regarding the air valve, air forks suck, so ditch the soft springs in favor of some from Sonic, or similar, and you won't ever have to monkey around with air again.

And for a master, consider modernizing.  The Kawasaki EX650 rectangular master is what I used.  It's 5/8" bore, which is same as OEM, and has the outlet port in a convenient place for clearance.  You can find clean examples off ebay for cheap.

P1010705 by nessism , on Flickr

Ness, what year for the EX650 MC or does it not really matter as long as it has the banjo bolt exiting the front?

Look for the rectangular version, like mine.  It has a mirror boss and is 5/8" bore.  There is a different version, where the reservoir is sort of rounded off on a couple of sides.  Don't get that one.