KZR's Bikes of the Month for 2024

74 Z1 900 New brake master cylinder has very little movement

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24 Jul 2023 06:14 #887537 by Nessism

The Z1 manual hosted here says the master bore should be 14mm.  Using a 5/8" bore master will result in increased hand effort and a very solid feeling lever.
Whilst I understand an extra 1.8mm on the bore size will displace more fluid so reduce "lever travel" and "feel" however given that fluid is still being displaced under pressure I don't understand how this translates into poor brake efficiency (the OP said that the brake works but stopping efficiency is poor ??) can anyone clarify ??
I would suggest before spending more money and digging too deep that you check the calliper sliders as previously suggested (it will take 10 mins and is free)
This link does a good job of explaining... www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm

I put a 5/8" master on a bike that had a very spongy feeling front brake lever and the result was rock hard feel afterwards.  The brake feel was poor, though.  Wooden feeling, so to speak.




 
Nessism I get the change in lever action but when you fitted that 5/8 cylinder was the brake efficiency effected or did it still stop ok (albeit with no "feel" in the lever) I am interested to learn ?
PS; good article by the way

It was hard to judge where the locking point was.  The lever took a lot of pull force, and then all of a sudden, the front could lock, if you were not very careful.  I rode this way for 22k miles, so it wasn't horrible, though.
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24 Jul 2023 13:49 #887548 by Tpwood
Hey Wookie, Just spent the afternoon on my front brake, the caliber is working perfect. I understand your thinking on 14 mm vs, 5/8, I'm there too! But everything is simple on the 74 single disc. I installed all new Japan manufactured OEM replacement parts, including hoses and distribution block. I loosened the two bolts holding the caliper, grabbed the brake and the lever moved almost full pull the tightened up, retorqued the bolts and it feed build back into the reservoir and tighten right up. I did this multiple times and it repeated. So matter what gap there is between the puck, the master and caliper does exactly what it's supposed to do. When I release the brake lever, wheel is free, so no dragging brakes. Actually it's a total of 1 inch pull for brake handle for a firm grip. Other than the distribution block, there nothing left in the system. I've worked on my own bikes for as long as I've been riding, 50 years now. I've had normal brake issues on bikes and cars but never ran into this. That's why I like forums! As much money as I've put into my Z1, a few more bucks isn't much to try to resolve the problem, especially brakes. I thought of the two disc conversion, buck that's a hefty price, but prefer to keep it stock as much as possible.
Thanks, Guys!
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24 Jul 2023 14:10 #887551 by Wookie58
All good, I'm cheap and lazy so like to go for the "easy and free" options first 

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24 Jul 2023 16:05 - 25 Jul 2023 04:01 #887558 by hardrockminer
Wookie, there are basically three pieces to the caliper.  The one closest to the spokes holds the fixed pad.  The one on the outside holds the piston.  The center piece holds the second pad that when acted upon by the piston will move towards the disc, squeezing it between the two pads.  We may be mixing terminology here.  I call the entire assembly the caliper.  The center piece is actually called a holder, presumably because it holds one of the pads.

I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
Last edit: 25 Jul 2023 04:01 by hardrockminer.
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24 Jul 2023 17:24 #887560 by TexasKZ
The EX500 and a bunch of other Kawasaki models use a 14mm master.

1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

www.kzrider.com/11-projects/620336-anoth...uild-thread?start=24

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26 Jul 2023 11:08 #887625 by Tpwood
IT's Fixed! I installed the new 14mm brake master and it's night and day, went from 1/2 inch pull to what felt like a wood block with the 5/8's, to perfect 2 to 3 inch pull with the normal brake feel.
I love forums , what did all of us old mechanics do before this? Thanks to all you guys!
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26 Jul 2023 13:42 #887626 by slayer61

IT's Fixed! I installed the new 14mm brake master and it's night and day, went from 1/2 inch pull to what felt like a wood block with the 5/8's, to perfect 2 to 3 inch pull with the normal brake feel.
I love forums , what did all of us old mechanics do before this? Thanks to all you guys!
we knew a guy, that knew a guy that understood hydraulic ratios, like Michael Morris

vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm

Don't be ridiculous! It's only a flesh wound!

[strike]Wife's little bike... 1984 GPZ 550 Kerker and DynaJet stage I kit[/strike]
Wife's BIG bike......[strike] 1981 GPZ 1100 Kerker and [strike]factory FI[/strike] Mikuni RS34s W/ K&N pods[/strike] SOLD

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26 Jul 2023 14:45 #887628 by Nessism

IT's Fixed! I installed the new 14mm brake master and it's night and day, went from 1/2 inch pull to what felt like a wood block with the 5/8's, to perfect 2 to 3 inch pull with the normal brake feel.
I love forums , what did all of us old mechanics do before this? Thanks to all you guys!
we knew a guy, that knew a guy that understood hydraulic ratios, like Michael Morris

vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
I know a guy that posted that same link in this thread a couple of days ago.  Who knew?
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27 Jul 2023 07:27 #887645 by slayer61
It's amazing how great minds think alike & use the same resources!  

Don't be ridiculous! It's only a flesh wound!

[strike]Wife's little bike... 1984 GPZ 550 Kerker and DynaJet stage I kit[/strike]
Wife's BIG bike......[strike] 1981 GPZ 1100 Kerker and [strike]factory FI[/strike] Mikuni RS34s W/ K&N pods[/strike] SOLD

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