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1977 KX650-B1. Question about fork rebuild. Can I do it myself?

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11 Jan 2021 22:41 #841559 by Warren3200gt
Unconventional, I agree, but it works if the OP can't undo the cap screw without the risk of damaging it.


Z1000J2 somewhat modified!

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12 Jan 2021 06:38 #841567 by 650ed
The cap will come out, but be sure to loosen the top fork bolt first or it will apply pressure to the top of the fork and the bolt. Here's what I used to remove mine when I rebuilt the forks. Ed







Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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12 Jan 2021 06:42 #841568 by 650ed
Also, if you have a problem removing the bottom bolt you may want to make a device to hold the fork cylinder from turning. I made the device pictured below, but somewhat later this company www.racetech.com/page/id/70 offered what appears to be a good tool to hold the fork cylinder shown in the first image. Ed


1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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12 Jan 2021 06:54 - 12 Jan 2021 06:54 #841569 by martin_csr
That fork cap tool is neat. even though I'm not sure what I'm looking at. hee. Is the nut welded to the extension? or just jammed in.
Last edit: 12 Jan 2021 06:54 by martin_csr.

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12 Jan 2021 07:53 #841574 by 650ed
I drilled a rod-size hole through the handle, put the long rod through it, drilled a small hole through the handle and long rod, and then put a steel pin through the handle and rod to keep the rod in place. I guess I had a lot of time with not much to do. :laugh: Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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12 Jan 2021 15:08 #841591 by Kozman011
I wish I had that sort of cap, mine is the raised 22mm head.

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12 Jan 2021 15:45 #841598 by Mikaw

Kozman011 wrote: I wish I had that sort of cap, mine is the raised 22mm head.


Like 650ed loosen the top yoke clamp. Leave it in the yokes with the lower pinch bolt still tight. Should come out. Put pressure on the ratchet pushing down as you get to the last few threads or the cap could strip out the Last few threads because of spring pressure. Front wheel must be supported off the ground or the bike front end could drop once the spring is released.

Aslo as mentioned used an impact gun on the damper (Allen) bolt before releasing the spring, not 100% its gonna work but worth a try. Here’s everything inside. They are pretty simple to rebuild.



Not sure if yours will have these but the are inside the fork tube at the bottom held in by an internal snap ring.



If you try the rubber tip 650ed recommended and it doesn’t work here is the Kawasaki tool.



If you look inside and see this.



HardRockMiner found a place that’s now selling a tool for it. I had a machine shop make me one.




1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
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Jimi Hendrix.
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