Drilling Brake Rotors

Yep, I just checked and a magnet sticks so they are steel

Crank the speed WAY down...You're gonna be so pissed (if you aren't already!) when you look at the PILE of bits that you've wasted! I do this when working with any really hard stock (i.e. stainless). Good luck!

do you have your rotors allready layed out,how about rear?

Sorry so long in replying, but I left work and had to go to school. I'll try to answer all the questions at once. I am using a drill press. I am using cobalt bits. I have a pile of pilot size bits, but only 1 large bit. I thought a higher speed would work better, but I'll try slowing it down. I was using WD-40 for lubication, but I will get cutting oil and try it again. My rear is a drum. If I had seen the 82 LTD front end for sale I probably would have bought it. Diamond bits are usually for stone or concrete. I think that's everything. I sounds like I'm in trouble, but I'll keep trying.

a magnet will stick to most stainless steels, you will need to keep a steady amount of pressure, and using a "peck" type cycle will keep the flutes clean.

rotors are steel they will rust.

BSKZ650 wrote:

a magnet will stick to most stainless steels, you will need to keep a steady amount of pressure, and using a "peck" type cycle will keep the flutes clean.

300 series stainless steel is normally non magnetic and most often used in automotive applications, the 400 series is often used for such things as flatware (butter knives/forks/spoons) and other decorative uses, and is magnetic.
Considering the use (brake rotor), the cost, and the required mechanical properties, I'll stand by my assumption that "if" the brake rotor was stainless steel, then it would be 300 series and thus non magnetic.

Some Info on Stainless Steel

I'm willing to argue the point (I like to argue ) but let's argue via PM and not clutter up the thread

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/03/07 12:43

ditto;)

What you need to find is a collage or vocational school that offers machining courses .In NY maybe BOCES .
Talk to the instructor and see if one of the students can do it for you cheap (cheaper then what you are spending on bits )
Always works for me
PS one of the first things they teach them is how to resharpen bits......hint,hint

Hello,
See if you can find a masonry(for concrete)bit in the size you need,they have carbide tips on them and are used for drilling hard materials.We use a lot of carbide tooling for cutting harder material in the machine shop that I work.You should also start with a center drill,so that your drill bit doesn't jump all around at first. Go slow and use oil. After you get the holes drilled make sure to debur the hole very good with a file or countersink so as not to tear up the brake pads. You might also be able to get a center cutting carbide end mill,they are not really made to be chucked on in a drill press but sometimes will work in a pinch,shouldn't need to center drill them first with these. The drills are a cheaper route though........ Hope this helps.......
Good luck and have a great day..... Don(tnt79z28)

Masonary drills aren't ground properly for drilling metals, you can buy solid carbide drills, we use them at work on our CNC for drilling tool steels, expensive but should do the job.

Post edited by: Russ, at: 2006/03/08 16:58

Russ is correct masonry bits are not really made to drill steel,just thought it might be a cheaper thing to try over solid carbide bits..I have used them before to drill through thinner material that was hard with pretty good luck..... I usually just use a high grade IE(morse brand) high speed bit. I drilled a 1/4" thru hole today at work in 20 pieces 7" long of 7/8 dia. 309 stainless and only sharpened the bit once... That's going in 3 1/2 inches each way to make sure the hole is on center.I did this on a lathe though not a drill press. I drill a lot of stainless(309&304)and some inconel(601) from time to time at work and have had the best luck with high speed bits.
Good luck and Have a Great Day........ Don