Starter Clutches and OIl

Hey Larry P2,
Keep us in the loop about the Yammy 400. I did a Google and like you said there semms to be a lot about Rotella and starter clutches on the web
I have an open mind on this stuff

Good luck.

Post edited by: JR, at: 2006/10/04 14:31

OK this is something I noticed just before this thread got started. I've mentioned in previous posts that I had a godawful screech comming from my starter. Whenever I've mentioned it, it was always suggested that it was probably the starter clutch. I knew it wasn't the starter clutch because at one time I tried out the starter w/the cover off and saw the starter chain slipping off the lower starter sprocket and running over the sprocket teeth. I thought the chain had streached and replaced it w/a slightly shorter chain, still had the screech. I thought I was going to have to live w/kickstarting it. I've recently had to replace the stator and when I put it back together I used a cheaper oil. The chain doesn't come off the sprocket anymore and the starter works much better than it did before. I now occasionally do hear/experience what I think is actually the famous starter clutch problem. I think there may be 2 issues w/this starter controversy. One can be helped w/a change in oil and the other is the starter clutch.
Just a thought but I'm glad my electric start is working.

You don't need an electric start on a 750 twin anyway

Last spring I replaced the starter clutch and the starter on my 750 twin, then I took the right side control pod apart and got the starter button working, the next day the starter button quit working again.
Kick starting it is so easy I never did get around to fixing the starter button again

steell wrote:

You don't need an electric start on a 750 twin anyway

Last spring I replaced the starter clutch and the starter on my 750 twin, then I took the right side control pod apart and got the starter button working, the next day the starter button quit working again.
Kick starting it is so easy I never did get around to fixing the starter button again

Very true steell, when she's warm a quater kick will start her right up but I like things to work when I have them and there will be occasions I'm gonna want the electric start to work. Maybe when I get her all straightened out she'll start w/a quater kick when cold . I'm gettin closer to having her on the road.

You know why I think the starter clutch problems is many, if not most times an "oil" problem? Because my starter works very well when it is hot or when it has been started once already that day. Its only when it is really cold or hasn't been started for a few days that you get the problem. And when it first came out of its years-long hibernation, all it would do is "whir." My mechanic thought the bike just needed to have the shit ridden out of it, which is also partially true. Which is also an additional argument that old gunk inside the engine case also had something to do with starter clutch slip and having the gunk burned out/changing the oil with high detergent oil accomplished virtually the same thing.

Remember, we are dealing with ancient machines here that have had decades for crud to build up in the engine cases. When I first started riding mine, the starter clutch slipped terribly, even when it was hot. Sometimes it would not start at all, even when it was hot. Now it never ever slips when it is hot. It never slips if it is cold but has been started, even if it ran only for a few seconds that day. And the first start of the day might involve two or three stabs on the button before the clutch engages. These are all compelling arguments that oil is the culprit.

With 20/50, it would still slip terribly, even though that grade supposedly had no friction inhibitors mainly I believe because the thick oil made engine turnover so hard. So my theory remains that you have to have the 5 weight lower viscocity number for the cold engine to be able to turn over on a cold morning. Sythetic oil naturally provides better lube, but most syn oils have friction inhibitors and have too little detergent effect because of the harm to catalytic converters. That leaves your motor oil choices very very few.

And you have to be content with very gradual improvement over time. My ancient Kaw has turned into be an extremely dependable and reliable machine without major surgery.

Seafoam claims it will clean out the insides pretty good. I wonder if a couple doses and the proper oil would hasten the desired results?

I'm a big believer in Seafoam, so the next time I change oil, I will add some to the crankcase before I drain the old oil and let it idle for awhile.

Bear in mind that Rotella is an extremely potent detergent in and of itself, since it is formulated for diesel engines which do not suffer from a catalytic converter. Therefore, they can put in the extra doses of phosphate (hint: look at the ingredients in your wife's box of Tide someday).

In any case, I believe I am slowly but surely fixing the starter clutch.