Bike went down, points cover & pickup coil destroyed!

Honestly I would be suprised if you can get those parts and the welding done for less than the cost of a good motor, and a similar displacement engine is an easy swap, no real time involved..disconnect plug wires, drop the exhaust, remove fuel and vac lines and airbox, remove the wires to the starter, pull the pickup coil and stator wires from the harness (looks like you're just about half done with that part anyway), unbolt the motor and lift it out (will probably take a 2nd set of hands), and then heave the new one in. Look for a bike w/o a title for ~$100-200, and time should be less than 3 hours.

Post edited by: Werewolfx, at: 2006/08/01 04:09

I've had stuff like that welded up for the price of a case of beer. It just needs a few dabs with a welder then a little talent with a drill and tap.

Hell, if I was desperate, I would even try JB weld. There is very little mechanical stress in the ignition cover.

Well either way I'd be interested to see how this turns out, whether you attempt to weld-repair the broken lugs, which I think is a gamble, or swap a motor. I agree with the last poster, $200 and 3 hours with a buddy, (while drinking a case of beer,) and you'll be all set...honestly you'd be surprised how easy it is once it's done to swap a motor on a bike, but heck maybe it is worth trying to weld it up. Either way please keep us all posted!

loudhvx wrote:

I've had stuff like that welded up for the price of a case of beer. It just needs a few dabs with a welder then a little talent with a drill and tap.

Hell, if I was desperate, I would even try JB weld. There is very little mechanical stress in the ignition cover.

+1, because that's exactly what I was thinking. Everybody knows a guy who knows a guy, right? I'd think you could rough up those posts, jbweld some new perches, dremel them to shape, then drill and tap. As long as the plate sits flat and lines up with everything the only pressure it will ever have is vibration, and if the screws are a degree off one way or the other I don't see how it would matter. All the pickup assemblies I've messed with have enough play that as long as the plate is centered the screws could be on a 45 and do a fine job holding it. Maybe I'm missing something, but this doesn't seem like that big of a deal to me. I'd be more worried about how I was going to get my foot out of that lady's rearend.

NickD wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

I've had stuff like that welded up for the price of a case of beer. It just needs a few dabs with a welder then a little talent with a drill and tap.

Hell, if I was desperate, I would even try JB weld. There is very little mechanical stress in the ignition cover.

+1, because that's exactly what I was thinking. Everybody knows a guy who knows a guy, right? I'd think you could rough up those posts, jbweld some new perches, dremel them to shape, then drill and tap. As long as the plate sits flat and lines up with everything the only pressure it will ever have is vibration, and if the screws are a degree off one way or the other I don't see how it would matter. All the pickup assemblies I've messed with have enough play that as long as the plate is centered the screws could be on a 45 and do a fine job holding it. Maybe I'm missing something, but this doesn't seem like that big of a deal to me. I'd be more worried about how I was going to get my foot out of that lady's rearend.

Maybe liquid wrench or a torch.

Never mind, I just went back and looked at the photos, and now see that the points/pickup compartment is intigral to the engine. Sorry


I don't know anything about this specific bike, but instead of doing all this welding or replace the engine wouldn't be easier to just replace the engine case. On my bike all the rotor/pickup/advancer parts are in the right (clutch) engine case. Then it would be just a matter of replacing rotor/pickup/advancer or points/rotor/advancer parts w/in the the case. Just a thought.

Post edited by: ronjones, at: 2006/08/18 23:42

ronjones wrote:

Never mind, I just went back and looked at the photos, and now see that the points/pickup compartment is intigral to the engine. Sorry


I don't know anything about this specific bike, but instead of doing all this welding or replace the engine wouldn't be easier to just replace the engine case. On my bike all the rotor/pickup/advancer parts are in the right (clutch) engine case. Then it would be just a matter of replacing rotor/pickup/advancer or points/rotor/advancer parts w/in the the case. Just a thought.<br><br>Post edited by: ronjones, at: 2006/08/18 23:42

On the twins that is true, but on the 750 fours that area is intregal with the main engine case, it's not a separate part like it is on the twins. So you would have to replace the upper and lower case halves.

Replacing the engine case looks to be about as invasive as replacing the engine.

Called a bunch of MC salvage yards. Found the assembly + cover for the 700 at several. Most were offering $60-$75. Found one for $50, throw in a cover as well for $10. Awaiting shipment arrival.

In the meantime I'm gonna scope out the local welders and clean out the gas that's been sitting in the float bowls all spring .