Trimmed harness, Engine won't idle properly (KZ750F)

I'm using the engine of a parts bike KZ750 F for a project I've been working on. I got back to working on it this summer by getting rid of the excess parts of the wiring harness that I thought I didn't need. I removed all the lighting-based wiring, the speedometer, and the unneeded switches (turn signals, dimmer switch, hazards, horn, rear and front brake switches). The engine wouldn't idle properly after putting the wiring harness back in. I am unsure if it was caused by the decluttering of the harness or another issue. I have defaulted on carburetor issues but I haven't been able to fix the idle after going through the list of common problems. Is there some part of the wiring harness that I removed trying to kill the engine? I've attached the harness diagram in case that is useful.

I very much doubt that this is an electrical issue, there is little that effects the running of the motor, only charging system and ignition (I assume you have ignition as you only have an idle issue) what airbox are you using ? what condition are your carb rubber mounts in ?

Ok, I was just wondering because when I didn't have a battery it would kill the engine if not hooked up to the jump starter I was using. I made a custom foam air filter for the engine which is pretty restrictive, but may not be as restrictive as the stock air box (I never had it). It is a three-part filter, with an outer fine steel mesh, 1/8 inch coarse prefilter, and 5/8 inch of a fine 65-ppi filter foam main filter. I recently replaced the carb boots while chasing my idle problem.

I would advise against trying to run without a battery (or jump pack) in the circuit as it will fry your charging system which relies on battery voltage to regulate

That was when I just got the bike before I bought the proper battery for it

The filter could be a problem. The carbs are very sensitive to airflow. Can you remove the really fine material and try running it with the rest in place?

I found the problem. It was a combination of an incorrect fuel service level and a bad vacuum leak. I bought new carb boots that weren't sealing against the engine block. When I checked with carb cleaner I didn't notice any change in the idle but I did when I checked with starter fluid. I sealed the mating surface with RTV and the vacuum leak was gone! I have some tuning to do but the engine is running decently in its current state.