Hazard lights switch

So I turn the ignition on & put the multi meter on the flasher unit?

Point "A" is the bullet connector on the orange/green wire in the switch loom, with it plugged in connect your red meter lead to the bullet connector (push the probe under the sheath) and black meter lead to battery ground, you should have approx battery voltage with the ignition on

Let me know how you get on and I will respond tomorrow (it's midnight now here in the UK)

While I had the switch block apart looking for broken solder I gave it a bit of spray & air, I hooked up like you said & the multi meter read 11.78, now mine is a U.S. import & when the ignition is on the headlight & DRL are on, anyway after fiddling with the 2 flasher units the hazards come to life! Dunno what’s going on but I’ll reassemble the switch block,
thanks Wookie58 & others in the chat

Harroldb wrote:

While I had the switch block apart looking for broken solder I gave it a bit of spray & air, I hooked up like you said & the multi meter read 11.78, now mine is a U.S. import & when the ignition is on the headlight & DRL are on, anyway after fiddling with the 2 flasher units the hazards come to life! Dunno what’s going on but I’ll reassemble the switch block,
thanks Wookie58 & others in the chat

Corroded contacts are the curse of these old bikes, sometimes simply unplugging and plugging contacts back together is enough to scrape the corrosion and regain contact. Probably worth cleaning the switch contacts and applying a film of dielectric grease before reassembly. Still a "win" is a "win" and you saved an electrician's bill 
If you aren't over confident with electrics it may be worth reading my "fault finding guide" the link is in my signature. Be well

Excellent to hear!! Ditto Wookie's thoughts, lots of male/female connection points, one of many points of "resistance" or open circuit. Noteworthy, a semi-working connection will build-up heat in that connector connection. This leads to melted connector blocks.