Crimp replacements

Hi all,
Rather than solder or splice wires together, I want to use the new higher capacity wires that came with a replacement combined  rect/reg going to the blue plug, would anyone know what is the ref or size or name of the male crimp terminals and any source in the UK that clip into the original plugs?
I’ve been searching through pages of terminals and can’t quite find something  that looks right, 
Thanks for any help, Stuart
1978 Z1000A2

Hi Stuart, can you add pictures of what you have and what you are trying to do. You will need to measure what you want, the below can supply most of the pin contacts to use original plugs

Nickel Pin (Male) Contacts Crimp Automotive Connectors – Mouser United Kingdom

Most if not all KZs have open barrel terminals which require an open barrel crimper for proper crimps. If your reg-rec terminals are the same, you might be able to find a crimper for around $30 or so.  I already had a ratcheting crimper from HarborFreight but the dies were wrong, so I got a set of open barrel dies from AircraftToolSupply on amazon.  I know you're in the UK, but I get most of my wire harness items from CycleTerminal. Z1Enterprises & VintageConnections have some of the same stuff plus color wire. cycleterminal

From cycleterminal. crimp tools page. 

Here is what you need, not the connector but the terminals, if the blue terminal pictured is what you are referring to. They don’t list them separately but possibly contact Vintage Connections and ask the size and if they sell terminals separately.

  www.vintageconnections.com/products/yamaha-control-connector

 

Hi all, as per mikaw’s photo, I’m after a source for male terminals/crimps that go on wires that go into the blue plug shown. Do these have a name or spec? 

apologies for not replying, but I have been unable to post anything due to the reCAPTCHA not working for a while, no idea why !!!! Very frustrating, tried different browsers & iPad/laptop etc 
But anyway, thanks very much for any replies,
stuart

OEM pins were Sumitomo.  When Jeff still owned Z1Enterprises, he was researching replacement pins.  Don't know what became of his efforts.

We gratefully acknowledge our German friend & legendary Z1 restorer Achim for his willingness to share the following info on re-using the OEM Sumitomo pins, and his explorations of alternative connectors..  We must also gratefully acknowledge kawasaki-z-classik for hosting the following images.

The notes are in German. Our German-fu is very weak. A translation service can be used for clarity.

Closeup of Sumitomo pin & socket removed. Pin is completely prepped for re-use.  Socket is not; it still has to have the conductor crimp spread & copper strands removed. You'll see below that Achim recommends soldering the free ends of the new conductor strands to the (cleaned) pin body.





Achim's basic tool & supply setup.  The 'aluminum block' is used to support the OEM pin in a vise without crushing it while the crimps are formed* away from the insulation & conductor.



Removing the pin & prepping for re-use.  Note how the 'aluminum block' is used.



Re-crimping & soldering.  Achim shows both a ratcheting crimper and a pliers-type crimper being used.  We far & away prefer a quality pliers-type crimper,  Can't go wrong with the Japanese Engineer brand.



Sumitomo pin image & dimensions.  Achim apparently didn't make a similar evaluation of Sumitomo sockets.





Comparison of Sumitomo & PMC pins & pin  housings.  We've not personally explored the PMC offerings at all.



Closeups.



Achim also explored Delphi Weather Pack pins & sockets.





The pins must be slightly modified to work in Sumitomo housings.  No info on the sockets.
 


That's all the info we have.

* A good Technician never bends  anything.  If need be, it is formed.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Why do you prefer the pliers type to the ratcheting crimper?

I guess I'm in the other camp, for bullet type (male and female) connectors I prefer the ratcheting type. But whichever one you are most comfortable with is the type you should use.

Slmjim and Z1BEBE: after over 30 years as a draftsman in the fabricating industry, I agree - bending implies damage, forming is intentional.   

TexasKZ wrote:

Why do you prefer the pliers type to the ratcheting crimper?


 

The dies in ratchet crimpers make two, separate, one-size-fits-all crimps, the conductor crimp & the insulation retention crimp simultaneously, without any real ability to monitor both crimp processes visually, as they are fairly hidden within the die.  Our experience is, ratchet crimpers work better with fresh wires & new connectors, but when re-using OEM pins as illustrated above, too often result in failed crimps that are too loose & fail the tug test or, over compressing the insulation leaves, puncturing the insulation, even with very good brand-name ratchet crimpers & their own dies.  Once a reused OEM pin is rendered unusable from a failed crimp in a ratchet tool, it must once more be prepped to try again, if doing so is even possible due to metal fatigue.  Too, ratchet dies have only three die sizes vs the many more sizes available on one plier tool.  If the conductor crimp needs to be further conpressed, it can't be done in ratchet dies without compromising the pin elsewhere.

The plier-type crimpers we've come to trust make the conductor & insulation-retention crimps individually, and it's easy to observe & contorl the process from either side of the jaws.  The wide range of crimp die sizing on most plier crimp tools also make tickling the die size selection easier, a necessity sometimes when OEM pins aren't consistently their virgin dimensions after opening the leaves for re-use.

The Iwiss brand IWS-1424A plier crimper will cover every new & re-used OEM open barrel connector we've seen on vintage Kaw & Honda bikes.  It's an unmitigated bargain as well at $10.00 - $15.00.  It's our go-to tool for new & used open barrel pins.

The Hozan P-707 covers a much larger range of pin sizes that most of us will ever need in addition to the sizes common on our vintage bikes, but at five times the price of the the Iwis IWS-1424A.  Can't go wrong with this one for electronics use.

If one absolutely, positively, must have a quality ratchet crimper, The Pro'sKit CP-3006 parallel-jaw ratchet tool with the correct open barrel dies is the best we've found for new, open barrel bullet connectors.  Not to be used on butt connectors for obvious reasons.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

I personally pref the flexibility of "plier" crimpers however when I worked for VWG dealers had to use a (very expensive) wiring repair kit sourced through the manufacturer. These kits included "ratchet" crimpers which left a distinctive imprint from the dies. If the correct crimpers weren't used subsequent failure of the repair would not be covered under warranty (a failed crimp rejected under warranty doesn't seem like a "big deal" but the repair could have required several hours labour for diagnosis and access so the financial penalty could be significant)

I used the pliers style for a couple of years and then switched to a ratchet style crimper and won't go back.

hardrockminer wrote:

I used the pliers style for a couple of years and then switched to a ratchet style crimper and won't go back.

 

Interesting.  Was the plier design single-pivot, or compound pivot like these?


We've never been satisfied with the two single-pivot open barrel tools we've tried. They only had three crimp stations.  Ended up selling them.   But that was early on in our search for crimpers to use with recovered OEM pins as well as new open barrel bullet pins.

Good Ridin
slmjim & Z1BEBE