z1r electrics

hi can any one help with a problem at my rear brake light switch im just getting 10.5 volts at the switch and 12 .6 at the battery terminal and what wire on the bike would be a switched live wire with 12 volts when the ignition is turned on thanks

Hi David, the supply to the switch is the brown ign live that powers most of the bike. It is going to be a question of starting at the switch with a voltmeter and working back until you find the poor connection. It might help if you look at the "resistance" fault section of my fault finding guide (link below)
Electrical fault finding guide - KZRider Forum - KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum

 

David,
What is the problem exactly?
You mentioned symptoms but didn't say what the problem was.

Did you measure voltage with the brake lever pushed down?
Did you measure both sides of the switch with the lever pushed down?

HI YES WELL I HAVE PUT A BOYER BRANSON IGNITION SET WITH COILS   ON THE BIKE AND ITS ONLY BEEN ON 2 WEEKS AND ITWAS FINE FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS BUT NOW IT WONT START SO QUICK ,BUT ON THE FITMENT INSTRUCTIONS THEY GIVE 2 WAYS OF WIREING IT UP YOU HAVE 2 WIRES FROM THE IGNITION PLATE AND WIRE THE COILS  AND THE BLUE BOX SPLICE INTO WHITE/RED WIRE FROM THE IGNITION WHAT THEY SAY IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS WITH STARTING YOU CAN TAKE THE WIRE FROM THE COILS AND PUT IT STRAIGHT ONTO THE BATTERY TO GIVE A DIRECT FEED TO THE COILS WITH A 10 AMP FUSEI DID THIS ON SATURDAY AND YES IT STARTED UP FINE I CALLED THEM TODAY TO CHECK THIS CONCERNED IT WOULD DAMAGE THE COILS WITH A PERMANANT SURPLY THEY SAY NOT .SO I THOUGHT IF I USE A WIRE WHICH IS SWITCHED I CAN COVER IT ,SO WHEN I WENT TO USE THE REAR BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH NO GO IT ONLY HAD 10.5 VOLTS ON THE BROWN WIRE BUT THE REAR BRAKE LIGHT STILL WORKS SO THAT DOESNT MAKE SENCE ,I WAS THINKING TO USE THE HORN WIRE ,I SHOULD SAY THE BIKE WAS FROM CANADA YEARS AGO AND THINK IT HAS THAT RESERVE LIGHTING ON IT IF THAT MAKES ANY ODDS TO IT THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY 

Take your volt meter 
Bike on 
Rear brake lever pushed
Measure voltage between positive battery terminal and the brake switch.
Voltage should be close to 0.00V
Voltage higher than 0.50V means you have an issue between the switch and the battery.
 

Not to undercut F64 as he is a great electrical trouble shooter, but if you need or want to ride WHILE you work with F64 try is mod. It will safely get you riding while you work through your wiring issues.

 

HI THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO ABOVE I WILL TRY IT OUT TOMORROW MORNING AND GET BACK TO YOU 

Thats the relay typ i prefer, come with an extra fuse terminal

 
 

There are a few things to consider here, firstly the guys are 100% right ref fitting a by-pass relay (the rational for this is in the below post)

Ignition by-pass relay W - KZRider Forum - KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum

When you talk about a blue block splice do you mean a "scotch lock" if so throw it away they are rubbish and will cause problems down the line.

 

Most of the 12v systems on the bike will still work at 10.5v (don't forget when it's running system voltage will be around 14v so these systems will then see 12v) the reserve lighting system connects to the "output" side of the brake-light switch so won't effect the input voltage
You need to do your voltage checks on the brown wire to establish if this is a result of the ageing process and the 2v drop is the sum of multiple smaller volt drops across several corroded connectors and switch contacts. If the bulk of the 2v is being lost across a single connector or switch you will need to address this ( a resistance of this level will build up heat which in turn will further increase the resistance and lower the voltage further. this cycle will continue as long as the system is turned on until it reaches a point where not enough voltage will pass to allow the system to work until it is switched off and cools down again)
I am amazed that a supplier has advised you to wire the coils directly to the battery, apart from anything this has potential safety risks. Doesn't this by-passes the "kill switch" so if you have a spill and are trapped under the bike with the back wheel eating your leg you can only turn it off with they key !!!!!!
 

HI THANKYOU SCIROCO FOR YOUR IMAGE AND INFO ON THE RELAYS I HAVE FOUND SOME ON EBAY ,AND WOOKIE THANKS FOR THE INFO ON FAULT FINDING AND MORE RECENT WHEN I SAY THE BLUE BOX THATS WHERE THE 2 WIRES DOWN FROM THE POINTS COME UP ALTHOUGH NOW IT HAS THE ROUND TRIGER PART IN THERE ,AS YOU SAY I HAVE TO FIND OUT WHERE I HAVE THE DROP IN VOLTS I HAVE 1 HR TOMORROW TO START THEN I WILL GET INTO IT AT THE WEEKEND 

If you have trouble following the troubleshooting posted by Wookie, reach out to F64. He is excellent at real-time diagnostics. He’ll run you thru a list of tests and ask for voltage within those tests. As mentioned by DynaTek, DO NOT leave the ignition on and the run/stop/run switch in the run position for more than a few seconds without the bike running, you have a high likelihood to burn out the coils. 

thanks mikaw electrics are not my strong point ,i was sat here last night thinking about this then rememberd  i have a new wire loom for the bile i got from z power a few years back so maybe its time to use it ill dig it out that might be a plan .