Ignition switch burning out. 1980 KZ440 LTD.

A couple months ago, my ignition switch started acting wonky. The entire bike would shut off while riding, the instrument cluster and lights dead. It would restart after a few minutes. This happened twice, then, no power with key in. I thought it might be the starter solenoid, I replaced that, no dice. I bypassed the ignition switch and put in a toggle switch, one wire to ground, three to positive. Everything was fine for about a month. Then, no power again. Test light across hot and ground lights up, but switch does not work. Replaced switch, started right up, ran for 5 minutes, died, and now the same thing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

My guess is that you may have a loose connection somewhere on the bike between the battery and the ignition switch.
Do you have a voltmeter?

Yes, I have a voltmeter.

Ok

Set your meter to DC V
Key switch on/Engine running
All of your connectors connected.

Red probe on positive battery post(post is the metal part of the battery)
Black probe on the negative battery post

What is your voltage to the tenth decimal place?(ex 12.5v)

Move your red probe to your toggle switch input.
What is your voltage to the tenth decimal place?

Move your red probe to a bare metal part of your engine case.
What is your voltage to the tenth?

The voltage you want here is as close to a steady 0.0v as possible.
Anything over 0.5v is not good
And a fluctuating reading is not good either. It has to be steady.

Turn off bike.

Thank You. I ordered another switch. As soon as I get it and install it, I will get the readings.

Have you blown a fuse & when you say the ignition switch is burning out, what does that mean? Are you seeing burn marks or what?
I would inspect as many connectors as possible & as much wiring as possible before installing a brand new switch.  
And make sure the correct fuses are installed. 

I am sort of waiting till new switch is installed and tests are run.  I will ask what sort of rating (volts and amps) the switch is rated at. Keep in mind that if the battery and fuse are working correctly there should be power to the switch, but not out of the switch until either the toggle or key is turned to on.