Ignition timing

I have 6.8-7 ohms when testing between the spring and a ground from what I understand in the manual I should be around 4 but I do not understand how to make the adjustment because It looks like I have a different style than what the manual shows. Can someone help explain this to me/show a better example of what to do?

What bike are you asking about?  If you want to measure coil impedance you should measure at the coil.  Primary should be measured between the two electrical wires on the end of the coil.  Secondary should be measured between to two plug wires.

It’s a KZ440 LTD

The ignition advancer need some lube!

When testing very low component resistance (in this case coil primary) using a common DMM, the resistance of the meter leads must be taken into account.  Even the best leads will introduce 1.5 ~ 3 Ohms into the reading.

Before testing the component, set the meter to the lowest resistance scale, then touch the lead probes firmly together.  Make sure the probes are clean where they touch.  You'll probably see a reading in the 1.5 ~ 3 Ohm range.  That's normal, and can be considered "native resistance" of the meter leads that must be subtracted from the tested component reading.

So, for example, lets assume you see native resistance of 2 Ohms when the probes are touched together.  If the component you're testing has a true resistance of 4 ohms, the meter will read 6 Ohms.  We already know the native resistance of the meter leads is 2 Ohms in this example, so subtract the previously-determined native resistance of the leads (2 Ohms) from the meter reading.  The result is the component having a true resistance of 4 Ohms.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

wrote:

When testing very low component resistance (in this case coil primary) using a common DMM, the resistance of the meter leads must be taken into account.  Even the best leads will introduce 1.5 ~ 3 Ohms into the reading.

Before testing the component, set the meter to the lowest resistance scale, then touch the lead probes firmly together.  Make sure the probes are clean where they touch.  You'll probably see a reading in the 1.5 ~ 3 Ohm range.  That's normal, and can be considered "native resistance" of the meter leads that must be subtracted from the tested component reading.

So, for example, lets assume you see native resistance of 2 Ohms when the probes are touched together.  If the component you're testing has a true resistance of 4 ohms, the meter will read 6 Ohms.  We already know the native resistance of the meter leads is 2 Ohms in this example, so subtract the previously-determined native resistance of the leads (2 Ohms) from the meter reading.  The result is the component having a true resistance of 4 Ohms.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Those internal resistance readings look a little excessive to me but I won't argue to point as it differs from meter to meter. Most decent meters have the functionality to calibrate (either automatically or with a push of a re-set button.) this is why when you first put the leads together the reading fluctuates before settling at zero. There should be no need to add supplementary calculations to the measurements you take.
If the meter leads had a resistance this high you would have to manually alter all readings you take as this resistance would also impact voltage and current readings ?
PS: when you zero the meter prior to testing if the meter has manually selected scales you should select the "highest" not the "lowest" to zero the meter

Your motorcycle has electronic ignition.  A 1980 440 should have had points ignition. you didn't say what model year.
KZ400.com has a Kawasaki manual >> electronic ignition would be covered in the 1981 supplement.

As mentioned by scirocco, the timing advancer needs to be lubricated.  The manual has specifics. But remove it so that you can clean, lube & inspect. Separate the rotor from the body & fill the groove w grease.  After lubricating, reassemble & operate the advancer by hand >> turn & release the rotor >> it should snap back.  Use a torque wrench on the advancer bolt & do not over-tighten.  ps:  I wouldn't completely disassemble the thing, just separate the rotor from the body. assuming it operates smoothly after lubing.