multimeter rather than test lamp?

I've been using Mutlimeter, but just recently got test light. For some tasks I just find it more convenient. Last 2 things I did with it:
a. Watched oil pressure switch close circuit (before starting engine hand to pump oil)
b. Set static timing points on BMW airhead. 

Both can be done with multimeter, but I prefer to see analog light on/off in those scenarios.

Both, a test lamp and multimeter did the same job to hunt for a voltage drop but an multimeter gives you more accuracy in some special cases like amps, ohms and voltage readings.

anyone know where to get a new starter solenoid? has mounting bracket spot welded to the solenoid

crap   now i noticed that the speedometer odometer fuel lights aren't working
so I do suspect ground or lack there of

From your original post I inferred that you wanted to use the Dyna test light procedure to check your timing.  I'm going on memory, but I think they request that the advance mechanism be turned fully clockwise, and that the light should turn on at that point, but not earlier.  The light us connected to the positive side of the coil and to the battery ground.  This allows current to flow when the advance mechanism is properly installed.  So instead of using a light, simply connect your multi meter to the same points.  I think that will work.

wrote:

From your original post I inferred that you wanted to use the Dyna test light procedure to check your timing.  I'm going on memory, but I think they request that the advance mechanism be turned fully clockwise, and that the light should turn on at that point, but not earlier.  The light us connected to the positive side of the coil and to the battery ground.  This allows current to flow when the advance mechanism is properly installed.  So instead of using a light, simply connect your multi meter to the same points.  I think that will work.

 
 

i'd thought that with a test light one lead went to neg and other on green or black wires but with multimeter i was told one lead to positive and other to green or black.

curious where is the ground for the gauge lights located? plz n thx

Ground or negativ is the black/yellow wire. It´s the same colour code on all Kawasaki bikes as always and connected to the bulb socket or gauge metal housing.

 

The meter or test light connect to the black and ground for timing 1-4. Then to the green and ground for 2-3 timing. Either will work. Test light will start to glow, or the meter will start to show voltage. 
 

I was going on memory, but thanks to Mikaw you can see in the static timing instructions (Item 1) how to correctly attach a test light.  They say to attach one lead to engine ground.  I find it easier to go to the other end of the engine ground wire, which is the negative battery terminal.  I also don't like that attachment Dyna provides to clip into the red wire.  I've had issues with that so I use bullet connectors.

thanx everyone and disregard the solenoid question found on evil bay

per wiregeorges relay does that leave power to coils even when key off?

No, the relay should be turned on and off by the original coil feed from the kill switch