1980 KZ440 LTD Stator / new member

Hey guys,
New to the forum. Allow me to introduce myself, My name is Chris, I'm from Massachusetts and my 18 yr old son and I have been restoring a 1980 KZ 440 LTD for him to ride as his first motorcycle. I have been a motorcycle "enthusiast" for most of my life. I own a 2017 Indian Springfield, a 1974 Honda CB450, I'm customizing a 73 CB 350 and just picked up a 1966 Honda CB450 Black Bomber as my dream restoration. In between we have been working on the KZ for him. Recently we pulled the stator after troubleshooting via the manual because we couldnt get her running and tested it, again by the manual, which stated the resistance should be around 495 ohms (if memory serves me right) but on our meter we got .4 ohms. So we took to the interweb and searched all the youtube videos and such and most of them come up with a close result to what we got (.4, .5, etc) so my question is does anyone know the exact resistance measurement we should be getting before we dump more $ on a stator that we may or may not need?

Thanks,
Chris

The stator just handles battery charging.
Your resistance numbers for the stator are good.
What happens when you push the start button?

What manual are you using?  FSM or clymer/haynes?  
The Kawasaki FSM for the KZ440 says the stator resistance should be 0.26 ~ 0.38, so it's probably fine.
Pdf available at the KZ400.com site. On the workshop manual page >> below KZ440 Workshop Manual >> click the second "here".

Awesome! thanks for the info.

It tries to start, but spits and sputters and backfires. We're moving on to the timing and hopefully that's the ticket but wanted to rule out the stator. I knew the stator was just for charging, at least it is on my Honda's, but i read somewhere on a 440 thread that if it's bad it may have a problem starting but I've also had experience with "some" manuals having incorrect information so I just wanted to make sure before we move on. I'm very familiar with the Honda timing and am just learning about the Kawasaki, which is completely different. Any tips?

Thanks for your help.

And we're using a Clymer which I've had past experience with incorrect info so I was a bit leary.

 

You are running points so it's not too much different than a honda.
You need to make sure the points are opening a the "F" mark on the timing plate.

bike turned off
Put your meter on resistance.
put a probe on each ignition point
rotate the crank counter-clockwise till the F mark lines up on the pointer
look at your meter to verify the points open at that moment.