using RH control from kz900 from z1 enterprises

Hello, wiring descriptions and solutions get quite confusing when described in these forums,
a few solutions, look up the Z-1 wiring on this site to cross reference colors and their purpose,
I have an 81 csr, and a Z1, and made this swap, wanted to switch lighting, easy to do,
is your wiring in the bars (all bullet connectors) or external, does bike have 4 or 6 pin connector, Z-1 has 4 pin, do you have switched lighting
the blue with white tape is feed to light switch, double flag blue is lighting return, plug in blue/w and brown/w, to feed lighting fuses, may need to install bullet connectors on them, as they may be spliced from factory in harness,
yellow/red is feed to ignition, black is feed to starter solenoid , 12v+, thru clutch interlock on left perch, which should enter harness und fuel tank, make a jumper with a male and female bullet and plug in,
brown should be feed from key switch, meter out, check continuity on all switch functions to prove to your self as to what does what, 12v- is not present in this control,
attached are a few pics, as I had to modify 4 pin on repro switch to 6 pin on 81 650, bottom of pics is bike harness top is Z1 switch
, oops hit insert tooo many times

tried again good luck stay healthy

Just for reference from an OEM RH switchblock. The two Blue wires are afforded for markets that had a "city light" inside the reflector of headlight. Note the PO is not painted in for US market.

I am going to have to do the same. thanks

sorry I got side tracked. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you. SO to back track here, I went to the original RH control to get everything up and running and eliminate chasing an issue that was just poor wiring. It turns over great ..... now. In tracing wiring back and using the schematic, there were a few things electrically that didnt make sense. I am a low voltage tech by trade, or used to be at any rate. So this is a comfortable place for me, or so I thought. Yes they used a black wire as a hot wire, WTF resounded in my brain and I considered that maybe when this bike was made, the japanese were still upset about losing the war. I added dyna s and dyna 3 ohm coils to my bike, and a relay setup as suggested by wiredgeorge, this trigger relay shooting battery voltage on trigger is used is SO many applications with aftermarket things that I hesitate to say it is a wiredgeorge creation but his explanation on his website is fantastic so credit where credit is due. I purchase a waterproof ish version of the relay and base. On the trigger, which used to power the coils, and points, i was getting 10+ vdc with a new battery sitting at 12.8 vdc i knew something was wrong. This led me to trace out the entire harness. What I found wont surprise anyone who has done this. MANYT splices that were not needed, many wires with splices over and over down their length, instead of a central point, the splices were all solder and tape. this is garbage also, they were covered in corrosion and open air essentially. I redid ALL of them using butt splices loaded with dilectric grease and covered over with heat shrink. This makes them air tight ish, and water proof ish, and I have done this on quite a few harnesses with great success. I also did the relay at the same time. Sadly though, once completed the clean up, I was getting battery voltage on the trigger wire now.... meaning the relay became redundant but I left it in as I ran heavier AWG wiring and voltage isnt the only thing to measure here. The capacity of the fatter wires for more current is worth it, i think.

long story long, I will tear the RH control apart now and wire by wire match it with my stock one. So I get what it is, what does PO stand for? also, what is the second ignition position for? I get voltage everywhere I should in the middle spot. to the far right not so much. Oh also with the above wiring clean up i went from one working turn signal to four. not surprisingly as the lighting circuit was spliced up so many places it makes your head spin. WHY OH WHY did they not make a sub panel splice point in the headlight bucket? there is a pile of room in there. Almost makes you want to shed the harness and start over. I also cleaned the main ground and added two more.

thanks again for the advise, appreciate it very much. I had these going to my junk mail which is fixed now.

cheers

PO= Parking (Lights) only. Parking /Running lights and no headlight. It's a European lighting requirement for parking.

To tie this off, I got mine all wired up. The black wire from the new RH control needs to be chopped out of the harness and add a bullet connector to it. The two blue wires(that one is spliced off the red from the connector block) I also chopped out as they arent needed in canada and I have no need to complicate wiring to get parking lights. What I did is chop the connector off altogether, the yellow with red matches up, as I said the black goes to the existing bullet connector, the pinkish wire is matched up with the solid yellow and using the old connector allows for the oddball brown wiring that goes around the connector to the blue with white stripe to remain intact and resemble factory wiring. if you do this the only change is on the control side of the connector where you connect yellow to pink, and I just added a label to the pink that says yellow. All works great now. On to the new RH control that is also wonky and comes with no schematic....