Spark Plug Gap

If it was me I would buy genuine Kawasaki points and condenser. If they work fine I would toss the non-genuine parts. If the genuine parts act the same as the non-genuine parts I would keep the non-genuine parts on the shelf for next points refresh. Ed

Ok, let us know when it comes in.

Luis,
Do you still have the original Kawasaki points?
I may have you use them if the contacts are in good shape.

I installed the original points along with the non genuine condenser I had and it ran the same as with the other points. Today I finally received the original condenser I ordered and nothing, the bike did not start up at all. It with highly unexpected, it was running with the non genuine condenser (again, with the spark plug gaps set at roughly .45mm). Now it won't even start with either condensers. Battery is fully charged.

meter time.

points closed
ignition on/engine off
DC Voltage

black meter probe on negative battery post
red meter probe on positive coil terminal
note voltage
red meter probe on negative coil terminal.
note voltage

rotate engine till points are fully open

black meter probe negative terminal
red meter probe negative coil terminal
note voltage
red meter probe on positive coil terminal
note voltage

Turn off ignition


This may be contributing to your woes. Here's a post from Scirocco:

points closed
ignition on/engine off
DC Voltage

black meter probe on negative battery post
red meter probe on positive coil terminal
note voltage: 12.5V
red meter probe on negative coil terminal.
note voltage: ?voltage is oscillating I'm guessing it's not grounding?


rotate engine till points are fully open

black meter probe negative terminal
red meter probe negative coil terminal
note voltage: 12.8V
red meter probe on positive coil terminal
note voltage: 12.75V

Yeah, it doesn't appear you are fully grounding with points closed.

ignition on/engine off
dc v
points closed

black meter probe negative battery post
red meter probe positive battery post
note voltage

move red probe to each contact on the points(pink arrows)
note the 2 voltages

move the red probe to the case of the condenser
note voltage

turn off ignition

You want both of the voltages on the contacts to be close to 0 volts. There should be 0 volts all the way back to the negative coil terminal.
Let's say you get 0 volts on both point contacts. You move the probe to the points screw that holds down the coil wire terminal. If you don't get 0 volts here, then there is a problem between the contacts and the terminal.

Also, during all of these test do not disconnect any of the connectors. The circuit has to be complete. Otherwise the readings are not useful.

Battery voltage: 12.8V

Both contacts are giving a voltage very close to 0V so is the condenser case. I connect the timing gun and give the engine a few turns and no spark once again. I really don't understand. :S

[strike]With the points open, do you have continuity between the points spring and the points plate or the engine case? It's possible when you changed the condenser that one of the contacts for the points or the condenser are now touching the points plate, creating a short past the points (meaning the coil current is never interrupted, consequently it cannot fire).

You can test for continuity by using the ohmeter reading or diode checker on a multimeter, or by using a test light. You will need to have the ignition on during the test because when it's off the positive side of the coil shorts to ground to discharge the coil and prevent burning them out. Alternatively you can unplug the blue wire from the coil before measuring. Touch/clip one probe to the spring on the points, and the other to the circular points plate/timing plate and note ohm reading. You should not get any value.[/strike]

I re-read the test instructions that F64 posted, and as long as the points were closed in the initial half of the first test, there should not be a short to worry about.

Are your points clean? Also, check the voltage between the negative side of the ignition coil (blue wire) and the battery negative. Make sure you don't unplug the connector for this test; just slide the probe up inside the insulation around the plug until it makes contact.

A picture of the points area with the cover removed would also probably be good.

This is the one reading that is throwing me off.




i'm going to have you follow the points wire back to the coil.

ignition on/engine off
meter dc v
points closed

black probe on negative battery post
red probe on terminal with the pink arrow
note voltage



move the red probe to the negative coil terminal(the metal piece coming out of the coil not the connector on the wire)
note voltage

These two readings should be the same--close to 0 volts.
If not there is a problem on that wire.

Turn ignition off

If possible, send a picture of your points plate

ignition on/engine off
meter dc v
points closed
Battery voltage: 12.7V

black probe on negative battery post
red probe on terminal with the pink arrow
note voltage: 12.67V

move the red probe to the negative coil terminal(the metal piece coming out of the coil not the connector on the wire)
note voltage: 12.7V.

Once again I connected the timing gun and I'm getting spark now, but only on the left side. Nice consistent spark. Nothing on the right. I swapped first the coil cables to see if maybe it was that, but I still only got spark on the left. Then I swapped the spark plugs and still only spark on the left. I tested the resistance from the negative battery post to both spark plug grounds and they both read 0Ω. What else could be causing the right side to not spark? I removed both carbs so it wouldn't flood the engine during the tests.

With the points closed, you ought to be getting very close to 0V on the tests described above. If you're getting battery voltage with the points closed, then they aren't making good contact. Make sure the points are fully closed when you test those voltages; there should be a small but visible gap between the points arm and the timing cam on the crank when they are closed.

Try putting the meter in DC Volts, then with the ignition switch and killswitch on, with the points closed, measure with the red probe on the metal hex nut on the right side and the black probe on the negative battery terminal. Then measure the battery voltage again. Note down both voltages, then turn off the ignition. That will tell us the voltage drop between the spark plug and the battery, which will give us a more accurate picture of the resistance.