Why wouldn't I do this

my plan is (see wiring diagram ) to permanantly connect the red and red/blue wire just before/after the ignition. I was wondering if this would cause any problems or battery drains. I went through the whole diagram and don't see any problems, but i'm a rook (rookie) when it comes to this sort of stuff.

As to why i want to do this, I believe the ignition switch is messed up. When i turn the key just right my taillight comes on, but if the bike bumps at all it will shut off and stay off. I'm assuming the problem is in the ignition switch, if anyone has any other ideas as to the problem do tell.

fische wrote:

my plan is (see wiring diagram ) to permanantly connect the red and red/blue wire just before/after the ignition. I was wondering if this would cause any problems or battery drains. I went through the whole diagram and don't see any problems, but i'm a rook (rookie) when it comes to this sort of stuff.

As to why i want to do this, I believe the ignition switch is messed up. When i turn the key just right my taillight comes on, but if the bike bumps at all it will shut off and stay off. I'm assuming the problem is in the ignition switch, if anyone has any other ideas as to the problem do tell.

I don't see a problem with doing that. Your "park" position on the switch will no longer light the tail, but you probably never use that position anyway.

I assume you would cut them at or near the switch and connect them together. In other words, don't just jumper them together and leave them connected to the switch. The red wire gets power when the switch is in the "park" position. It will drain the battery quickly in that position if the wires are only jumpered (without disconnecting from the switch).

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/07/12 01:51

You know, if you are careful, you can pull that switch apart. Then clean off all the copper contacts inside with some fine grit sand paper.

I had similar symptoms on mine. it turned out to be the two wires in the right hand switch gear that go to the kill switch were shorting against the handlebar. When the ignition was turned on, it would start to turn over then all the lights and everything would shut off and it would be completely dead. Take a look at those wires in the switch gear and trace them out to make sure those aren't shorted. Once corrected, everything operated normally.

Good luck.

Post edited by: SuperTrey, at: 2006/07/12 12:23

I agree you should take the switch apart and clean it. Here is a reprint of a write-up on this issue that I posted in the old forum (now in archives):

EASY TO PULL AND CLEAN!

Once you figure out how it comes apart, it is easy to disassemble and clean your ignition switch. Here are the steps (sorry, no pictures):

1. Remove the headlight bucket, so you can access the bottom of the switch.

2. pop off the plastic cap on the bottom of the switch.

3. remove the single screw holding the switch assembly into the locking mechanism. It is next to the wire entry into the switch.

4. Remove the plastic switch assembly by pulling gently on the wires.

5. open up the switch assembly (carefully) by prying between the black and the white plastic switch cover parts. The black part will pop right out. The inside pieces are easy to see, and remove without any effort. Don't lose the little BBs that fit in the sides of the switch cylinder.

6. Clean up the contacts, and the contact plate (basically both sides of the contacts) using some fine emery cloth, and some alcohol [sp?] or contact cleaner. Then put in a little dielectric grease, and reassemble. I also removed the springs pushing the contacts and stretched them a little, so they would exert more pressure on the contact base.

7. After reassembly of the plastic switch assembly, line up the female part of the lock/switch interface, and push it back into the lock. There is also a key on the plastic that fits into a notch in the the lock at the correct position. When all fits right, insert and tighten the screw.

8. Pop the plastic cover back on.

Very easy, so long as you catch all the parts as they come out. I worked over a paper bucket, and only dropped one BB onto the floor.

Now, I am trying to figure out why they only sell entire switch and lock mechanisms, when the only part that is likely to fail is the switch portion.
/

The red wire from your ignition is switched and runs back to the tail lamp. You can just connect it to the blue as you plan or splice it into the blue/red coming off your headlight on/off in the right switchgear and have that switch control it. That is actually what is done on some models anyway.