Many issues. Looking for help.

So, an update on what is going on with my bike. I've figured out my electric start issue. It's a mix of the starter motor is dying, the start button had some corrosion right at the connection, and the ignition switch isn't connected very well causing arcing inside the housing. Blew 3 fuses before I figured that out.

With wiggling the key in the switch the headlight came on and had enough connection then that I was able to kick start it. The beast lives!!

I need to do some more mechanical work, but the electric issues are figured out enough to get me there now I think. Thank you guys for all your help.

Thanks for the update.

It was a great post Jim. I thought it was perfect as you wrote it. Someone else criticized its use of the term "native resistance" and offered the term "input impedance" as a substitute. There was never a dispute over the word "resistance" . "Input impedance" and "input resistance" would basically have the same meaning here, and neither one represents the idea of "native resistance".

Input impedance would simply be the resistance any device connected to the meter would see if it was trying to measure the meter as if the meter itself was a resistor. That would be in the thousands of ohms. The native resistance, in the meanwhile, would only be an ohm or two, or even less than an ohm (exactly as you described).

Camo wrote: So, an update on what is going on with my bike... and the ignition switch isn't connected very well causing arcing inside the housing.
With wiggling the key in the switch the headlight came on and had enough connection then that I was able to kick start it. The beast lives!!

Hope you're not Ridin' it in traffic. If the ignition sw decided to crap out for an instant or longer that could lead to unpleasant consequences.

An intermittent OEM ignition sw issue on a '72 Z1 basket case we did a couple years ago led us to explore the innards of early Kaw rotary ignition switches. What we learned is documented in the thread linked below. Among other things, like the rest of the bikes of that era, Mama Kaw spec'd a switch built to a price point, with all the limitations thereof.

If you decide to follow this path, take your time, work in a comfortable, well-lit area, admit that you might need glasses and, keep in mind these very small parts are under some spring pressure. We use an old cafeteria tray with raised sides for this type of work, and line the bottom with a few layers of newsprint so a small part doesn't "bounce" if dropped.

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/606810-z-...-and-troubleshooting

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE