HEI Conversion question

Hold on, I popped a fuse before the test, retesting now....

Test results came up the same. No voltage on the W or G terminals. I tested the spark on the new units and it was more consistent for the bench test

Well, that is a problem, because now we have to delve into all of the unlikely possibilities... going into uncharted territory takes a huge amount of time and many many tests... much like I had to do when I first started this project. There is no detailed documentation on the net, that I've found (I found many general documents, but none with all of the specifics).

So the unlikely possibilities are:
1) The module has been re-designed.
This is unlikely because the brain chip MC3334 is obsolete. In our case, obsolete is good because it means no further development is being done, i.e., no changes. The chip controls the dwell function which is what controls the voltages we see on W ( which influences G). So it would mean an even more unlikely scenario, which is that Motorola has for some reason redesigned the MC3334. China is a wild card, though, and it's not a far stretch to imagine they pirated the MC3334 design, and made changes to it. I have a few MC3334's from China I bought recently (I could not find them anywhere else). I will try to test them to see if they no longer match their data sheet. I will also try to obtain a BWD module and test that to see if it is non-conforming. I had an old one that was the same as the Wells DR100, so I will try to locate that one too.

2)All of the modules you are getting are from the same source and they are all defective.
This is pretty self-explanatory. Either the product testing failed, or all the modules suffered some temperature or moisture issue. Unlikely in either case.

3)Some part of the testing we are doing is giving a false result.
I've spent many hours on different boards troubleshooting this mod for Kz's and Honda's. Sometimes the simplest thing gets overlooked when having to detail everything through text. Using photos (and drawings) is a 100 times better, but doing it in person is still 100 times better than using photos.

The bench test setup is pretty simple, but can you take a photo of the bench setup just in case something stands out?

I will put some further tests in the next post.

Would it be a big deal to return the modules and get the dr100 modules?

So if we go with the re-design scenario, we will need a bunch of tests to understand what has changed. But to get you up and running, we might be able to narrow the testing to a few that will directly impact the usage with the Kz.

With:
C connected to the coil, with the coil connected to create spark.
12v on B.
Module grounded.

Apply 12v to a 1000 ohm resistor (the 1K resistor you were using earlier should work) and touch the other end of the resistor to the G terminal. This should create the spark, much like your earlier bench test.
If it does create spark:
Disconnect C. This is so you can hold the resistor (that has 12v on it) onto G longer.
Then touch and hold the resistor to G. You can use an alligator clip to keep it connected.
Measure the voltage on G and W. It should be near 12v on G, maybe lower on W.

For the next bench test, you will need the pickup plate and pickups, and I will have to modify a drawing to show what to connect.

Randombeat wrote: Would it be a big deal to return the modules and get the dr100 modules?

There is really no such thing as an actual, made-in-Wisconsin, by Wells, DR100, anymore. The one you get is usually the same one you get when you buy a Niehoff, or sometimes BWD, or Duralast etc. They're all usually from Hong Kong, and sometimes just the same module in a different box.

If you can locate some old stock on ebay, then you can get an old module, and then they won't necessarily have to be a Wells module, since they were all very similar back then.

For reference, the old Wells modules had "WELLS", all capitals, embossed into the plastic.

You can see it on these modules from about 10~15 years ago

OK, I am back to the work bench. Attached is a picture of my bench setup. Please excuse the mess, and the lack of different colored wires. If something doesn't make sense, let me know. I actually have each module going to ground, and the power setup is all twisted into one, then goes out to the components, with a fuse right after the battery. I'll start reading into the testing you posted now...

OK, so per your test instructions, here are the results.

With:
C connected to the coil, with the coil connected to create spark.
12v on B.
Module grounded.

Apply 12v to a 1000 ohm resistor (the 1K resistor you were using earlier should work) and touch the other end of the resistor to the G terminal. This should create the spark, much like your earlier bench test.
If it does create spark:
YES, I have spark to the spark plugs as before in the prior tests

Disconnect C. This is so you can hold the resistor (that has 12v on it) onto G longer.
Then touch and hold the resistor to G. You can use an alligator clip to keep it connected.
Measure the voltage on G and W. It should be near 12v on G, maybe lower on W.

My battery is at 12.8 volts.
I got 11.60 volts at terminal G (same on both modules)
I got 5.79 volts at terminal W (same on both modules)

I think I can make out what you have there. The wires that go from the module C to the coils are a little obscured, but I think I can make them out going to the correct place.

Also, as long as they are laying there, get some ohm readings from W to ground and G to ground, and W to G.

Where did you get the modules? I went to Autozone and they only had the Duralast DR100, which I already have,

Should I get those OHM readings with nothing connected to them?

My friend picked them up, he works at O'Riellys. I have an autozone close by I could try, if you think it will make a difference

Yes, W and G unconnected and no power connected.

I don't want you to buy more modules, as you are pretty well stocked on those already .
If the ones you have are different, it would be better to figure out how to get those to work. The voltage readings look more promising now. There will be a few more tests, but I have to make a sketch.

I will try to get to an Oreilly's in the next day or so.

You have two different modules (gray and black), did they come in the same brand of box?

On all (4) modules I have now, resistance between W and G is between 9.85 and 9.89 k ohms
W and ground is 10.06 K ohms
G and ground is 19.5 k ohms