Kz550 advancer problems

I took the points advancer apart an unsiezed it, but after I put it together I realized that the lobe can be installed two ways doh!
anyone know off hand which way it goes back together?
Also whats the points gap an what is the mark that they are supose to open an close on?
Thanks

1980 kz-550

Do you have a service manual? If you dont, I'll scan the pages regarding this issue and send them to you.

The lobe on the 1980 KZ550 with points kind of has a disc on the bottom of it that has to go under the weights. you will have to disassemble the springs and weights, slide on the lobe, and then put it all back together.

Proper gap is 0.3mm-0.4mm. Points shouldopen onthe "F" marker.

If you dont have a manual...I'll send you some scans. You should really go pick up an original service manual on Ebay. They are worth my weight in gold

Heres one: Manual

Hi if your advancer is anything like the one on my 650, there is a small line on the end on the lobe portion of the advancer that the crankshaft nut normally conceals, which aligns with a very small hole on the base of the advancer.

Sorry, this is not for points, but incase it's similar to the electronic advancer....

If your wiring on the coils has been altered, the rotor may need to be 180 deg. out, but stock, it should be like this. The point of the rotor is near the "TEC" logo.
and, as always, make sure the tiny rubber stops are still glued onto the arms.



Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/07/04 01:55

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/07/07 10:17

another angle.
.

Thanks everyone,
I got everything back together now, I just have to set the points, What sucks is I usta have factory manuals an micro fich an special tools, but gave them away when I sold my old ltd550, figuring Id never have a use for them again. oh well

point gap .012~.014 (match book cover paper)

set gap first then go to timing
use a test light to set the timing, clip to the point arm at the nut and the other end to ground

turn the key on and the light will go on and off when the crank is turned. ( by hand with a wrench not electric)

at the "F" mark the light is going to go OUT. be exact do it twice so it happens perfect. do 1-4 then 2-3

If you need some scans...send me your e-mail address and i'll hook you up.

Erik